jbl 1201.1 problem HELP!!

[breakjunki]

Hey guys... I have a jbl 1201.1 wired at 1.3 ohms to 3 pioneer 12's.. 1/0 gaueg power split to 4 gauge to the amp.. 4 gauge ground.. problem is at higher volum the subs/amp cuts out... the amp doesn't go into protect and it somes back on when you lower the volum.. any suggestions.. I'm lost.. thought it might be too much current draw.. i dunno... thanks.....

[GlassWolf]

very good thinking.
thermal protection mode caused by clipping from lack of voltage.
voltage rails sag from lag of current, amp senses this and shuts off temporarily to protect the speakers.

fix: upgrade charging system with high output alternator
replace "big 3" with same 1/0ga cable as battery-to-amp
consider an optima yellow top to replace stock car battery

[6three6mafia6]

definently do the big 3 , lower the gains a tiny bit, if you still got problems try a optima yellow top, if you STILL have problems youre gona have to get a HO alternator, that is a lot of power , what type of car do you have?

heres a VERY helpfull link to the big 3 http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=007801;p=

[breakjunki]

It's all hooked up in a 92' explorer.. Don't get me wrong.. the truck is loud.. but seems like it should be louder.. I was kind of thinking I would probably need to upgrade the alternator and or battery. but when the amp goes out the protect light doesn't come on.. current draw would cause it to shut off temporarily without going into protect?? well I appreciate the input.. I'm going to tweak it a little today see what happens... If not its new alternator and cap time.. guess I didn't think about what 1114 rms would to to the old charging system!

[Fishy]

My Explorer has a voltage gauge. Whats yours doing when all this happening? If the needle is dropping cosiderably and not recovering until the amp shuts off or the music settles down you have a current delivery problem.

Doing the big three thing might help, but I'd forgo the capacitor and battery upgrades and concentrate on getting a H.O. alternator first. I got a 170 amp job from here:

http://www.motorcityreman.com/

It cost me $170 and utilized exactly the same housing as stock so dropped right in no problem.

Oh, and this may sound like a stupid questrion, but you are experiencing this problem while the engine is running right? Most stock alternators provide very little output at idle and ZERO when the engine is shut off, lol. Revving the engine when cranking your system might help a tad, but my Explorer came with a stock 105 amp alternator which is kind of pushing it with that much power. Your alternator is responsible for providing ALL your car's electrical needs while the engine is running, including accesories such as a/c fans, headlights, windshield wipers, etc. as well as your audio system.

-Fishy

[breakjunki]

Yup.. my voltage meter pretty much follows the bassline.. so looks like an ho alternator for me... I got back from the shop bout 2 hrs ago.. upgraded the big three to 1/0 gauge helped some.. but guess with that kind of current draw I can't expect too much from the stock alternator.....Honestly I'll probably never listen to it regularly that loud.. don't think the truck can take it....the roofs flexing about 3 inches when i threw in some old magic mike.. but hey nothin like overkill....thanks guys...

[audiobass10]

lol, the Explorer will handle those Pioneers fine, but the alt's not gunna like that Amp much longer. The roof flexes quite a bit on my Jeep with just a couple Rockford P2's sealed. They're not my subs, but i'm using em' till I finish my friend's new box lol. I realized it doesnt take much to flex the roof or move the change in my cup holder up front.

[sinister audio]

ya if some P2s can make ur roof flex i think about anything could, well i suppose thats a pretty big area with not too much support.

[William from NOLA]

The P1's and P2's do good job for SPL. SQ isn't there at all though. Although they do a good job of masking their inaccuracies. I found the P3's to be a HUGE step up in SQ from the P2's.

[sinister audio]

ya i have never been impressed in RF's stuff lately well for the last few years, its pretty sad day when companys go down hill like that

[breakjunki]

Well Guys.. 3 days and about 300 bucks later I'm of and runnin.. upgraded the big three plus a 170 amp ho alternator.. no voltage drop now... plus i really got to see what the 1201's capable of.. that amps got some power behind it.. appreciate the help..

[GlassWolf]

a HO alternator makes quite a difference, doesn't it?

[Fishy]

You get that motor city reman jobby?

I'm real happy with mine especially at the price I paid. It has a smaller pulley and I initially had some belt squeak up until things got warmed up. That happens very rarely now.

One problem I did have was upgrading the alternator power wire. You need to utilize a very small ring connector at the alternator to keep from shorting things out on the housing. I ended up using a standard 4 gauge replacement cable from Advance Auto Parts and grinding the end terminal down until it fit(awfully darn thin now, hehe). I really didn't want to cut up the original wiring just in case I ever "upgrade" to another Explorer and want to take the stuff with me so I left the original wiring in place and ran the new wiring in parallel(4 gauge + 6 gauge = ?). The stock alt wire also runs through a pair of fusable links. This worried me and again I didn't want to cut things up to run through that so I just installed an el cheapo 150 amp ANL fuse and holder at the battery.

I'm in the process of upgrading to 1/0 gauge power wiring, but due the difficulty of adding even 4 gauge to the alternator I think I'll just leave things as they are there. I'm only running about 1000 watts total anyways.

If you ran 1/0 to your alternator I'd surely be interested on how you managed it.

:)

-Fishy

[GlassWolf]

I'll show ya how to do it for tree fitty

[Ryan from Ohio]

Im mo expensive

fo fi o

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