View Full Version : 1988 Beretta GT SPL Machine
Ryan from Ohio
09-10-05, 05:31 PM
Well here it goes...
Ive been debating on what to do with the beretta... Fix it up install system or sell it off. I decided Im going to run with it...
System:
20 4" Extended Range Drivers from Partsexpress.com
8 3/4" Dayton Tweeters from Partsexpress.com
6 12" Resonant Engineering RE series subs
1 1/2" Cubes per sub, tuned to 34 Hz
Power: Amps are still int he Air... Looking at ARC KAR 900.1D for the subs and not sure for the doors...
160 motor driven alternator with a deep cycle in the back. Totally closed loop electrical system. I am driving the alternator of a cog belt motor... THis will be something new...
The rear seat/deck are coming out, the subs are going in.
Im going to take the dash completely out and glass a custom one in. In my spare time I will be gettignt he car to run better and a Maco paint job ($300).
Pics to come...
sinister audio
09-10-05, 05:54 PM
do a really ugly ass paint job so it fits in with the imports and also screw a picnic table to the deck lid and paint it a clashing color. well at least thats what a man would do. lol
what color you going with black or maybe a blue. get justin to do some tinting it should look pretty decent.
Ryan from Ohio
09-11-05, 07:10 AM
Well the car is already black. When it does get repainted Im going to keep it black. That way I dont have to mess with the door jambs and I want black anyhow :)
audiobass10
09-11-05, 07:35 AM
Any idea how you're gunna fit the 6 12's? I would assume maybe a wall, but then again i'm not sure if you've got the room for 6 12's in a wall back there.
theres always room for 6 12's...........
audiobass10
09-11-05, 07:48 AM
theres always room for 6 12's...........
Yea of course, I meant by walling out the back. Doubt that would work...not sure how much height their is too work with back there.
should be able to get 2 rows of 3 pretty easy with no back seat. hell id probably look at 15's but i have problems....
Ryan from Ohio
09-11-05, 01:12 PM
No back seat, no rear deck and probably no trunk...
Just somehow Im going to need to weld a bar in lieu of the rear deck to stiffen it up...
Dunno, but its gonna work ;)
20 4" Extended Range Drivers from Partsexpress.com
damnnnnnnn
I see you are getting dayton tweeters. Have you ever heard anything about the $30 7" Dayton mids from parts express? 6mm xmax, $30, seem so cheap but I've heard they are good drivers.
sinister audio
09-11-05, 02:23 PM
those mids out throw alot of cheap subs from a few years back. i think they would be worth a try
Ryan from Ohio
09-11-05, 02:38 PM
Plenty of people have bought and tried these really cheap speakers. Hell they are using them in line arrays for home audio.
For $0.49 a speaker and only needing 5 WRMS its worth a go. Like I said- $200 car :p
audiobass10
09-11-05, 02:44 PM
I own 25 of those Pioneer speakers. For the price, they sound very clean and can get pretty loud too.
how is the imaging going to work with that many speakers? do you have it all planned out on where you are gonna put them?
audiobass10
09-11-05, 05:58 PM
how is the imaging going to work with that many speakers? do you have it all planned out on where you are gonna put them?
lol, i'm sure imaging wont be one of his main concerns in that car.
sinister audio
09-11-05, 06:07 PM
who needs imagining when you have a 140db front stage.
Ryan from Ohio
09-11-05, 06:39 PM
^^^^ my point exactly.
The will most liekly have about a 10° angle towards the seats and about a 5° upward angle...
MobileAudio219
09-17-05, 11:48 PM
Sounds pretty cool! Keep us updated... oh, and add some pics. :happy055:
Ryan from Ohio
09-17-05, 11:50 PM
As it happens. I got one door panle covered in glass about 95% there.
Need to do the other one. Also waiting on the speakers to come in. Hope they got ordered...
MobileAudio219
09-21-05, 11:45 PM
Pictures, pictures, pictures!
Ryan from Ohio
09-24-05, 02:01 PM
Ok here are some various pics for you all to digest.
http://www.caraudiocentral.net/ryan/images/beretta/
Im just going to let you all look at what you will vs. posting them here.
Im sure your all plenty smart to figure out what is what...
Not a bad looking car for $200 huh?
MobileAudio219
09-26-05, 09:24 AM
Looks likes its going pretty well. Remember to keep us updated! :happy055:
Ryan from Ohio
09-27-05, 02:48 PM
The 4" speakers came in today along with 4 3/4 Tweeters...
Pic added to that directory. The speakers are a little taller than I thought they would be, but they are about level or slightly under how far the arm rest sticks out, so no biggie
peace
whats up with this?
http://www.caraudiocentral.net/ryan/images/ryan-111.jpg
sinister audio
09-27-05, 02:58 PM
ahh i see a golf cart that needs a system
audiobass10
09-27-05, 03:12 PM
The 4" speakers came in today along with 4 3/4 Tweeters...
Pic added to that directory. The speakers are a little taller than I thought they would be, but they are about level or slightly under how far the arm rest sticks out, so no biggie
peace
The worst thing about those speakers is cutting the hole for them..they're kind of odd to mount. The holes I cut for two of them ended up being too large on the top and bottom...just something to be aware of.
Ryan from Ohio
09-27-05, 03:40 PM
whats up with this?
http://www.caraudiocentral.net/ryan/images/ryan-111.jpg
Your Kung Fu is not strong enough Chris...
:sm29:
Ok Dave so your saying the hole isnt round??? I will double check mine before cutting...
Going to glass the second panel tonight. Grind off all my mistakes on the first one and possibly get some wood on it ;)
Ryan from Ohio
09-28-05, 06:50 PM
Got both panels glassed first coat. Sanded errors out and any bubbles or drips off.
Tomorrow Im buying the needed wood and Friday is D Day for these panels...
Justin from Detroit
09-28-05, 08:26 PM
HAHA we got a golf cart at our shop, so we made it pretty fast (around 30 MPH). we were planning on extending it, adding air ride, and a system, but we ended up flipping it several times, and hitting a few dozen walls. And now, well.... we are looking for another golf cart lol.
when you come down are you bringing the berreta?
Ryan from Ohio
09-29-05, 05:06 AM
when you come down are you bringing the berreta?
The beretta is no where close to being done.
Maybe next summer...
TechSys
01-23-06, 11:49 PM
Sorry for bringing up an old topic, but... Somebody was wondering if you could fit 6 12" subs back there. Yes you can, an not really have to do a full wall. This is in the back of an older cavalier, but it'll give you an idea of what I mean.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/2075000-2075999/2075618_77_full.jpg
6 15" subs in a half wall. Unfortunately the guy that was building it didn't finish. Could probably go with 12 15" subs in a full wall. It'd be tight fitting, but I think it could be done.
Ryan from Ohio
01-24-06, 05:08 AM
Sure it can be done.
I had 4 12"s in the trunk of my Beretta at one time.
Each sub was in a 1.25 cubed sealed box.
I can tell you one thing, I have yet to recreate such feeling in ANY of my cars...
MobileAudio219
01-24-06, 06:00 PM
I look at everyone elses project to try to motivate myself, but instead of going outside and getting started on my projects I continue looking at everyone elses... Ah, I guess I could just motivate everyone else.... so.... uhm..... WORK, WORK, WORK!
Ryan from Ohio
03-06-06, 11:26 AM
6 months later and Im looking to purchase an engine/transmission for the retta...
weeeee!
MobileAudio219
03-07-06, 06:57 PM
I wish you were closer ryan, I could find you a lower milage motor and tranny for 200-300 for the set...
Ryan from Ohio
03-07-06, 07:16 PM
If you can find a set for $200 it might be worth it then get it shipped. Problem is crating.
The place I work we have two docks and fork lifts. Being the Safety and Lean Coordinator has its benefits ;)
Ryan from Ohio
03-07-06, 08:45 PM
Just located an engine for $100
Going to go get it this weekend!
The trans at the junkyard is only about $100-125 so I might get that also...
William from NOLA
03-07-06, 08:49 PM
That's a really awesome find!
... eh, I hope it all still works lol
Ryan from Ohio
03-07-06, 08:57 PM
They said 110K miles and runs excellent and ncludes a 90 warranty...
Although it will probably take 90 days to get it in there unless it gets warm out quick!
MobileAudio219
03-08-06, 07:00 PM
They said 110K miles and runs excellent and ncludes a 90 warranty...
Although it will probably take 90 days to get it in there unless it gets warm out quick!
I'd drop the sub frame and do the motor and trans at once, it's WAY easier this way, and you will thank me tons...
Ryan from Ohio
03-09-06, 05:07 AM
I was afraid someone else was going to mention this...
How do I go about doing that with just some jack stand and jacks?
sinister audio
03-09-06, 08:08 AM
if you have a cherry picker just lift the car up with that and then slide the motor and tranny out.
William from NOLA
03-09-06, 08:14 AM
if you have a cherry picker just lift the car up with that and then slide the motor and tranny out.
You make it sound so easy :happy055:
sinister audio
03-09-06, 08:16 AM
oh i can make anything sound easy if i want too.
Ryan from Ohio
03-09-06, 10:21 AM
Thats not gonna work...
sinister audio
03-09-06, 10:46 AM
sure it will ive done it before.
kevinberry1
03-09-06, 12:04 PM
What's wrong Ryan, you don't have a cherry picker lying around at your disposal? :D
ridr4lif
03-09-06, 12:13 PM
Tractors work good as engine hoists too.
Jonathan
03-09-06, 01:42 PM
You know, with real cars you use a cherry picker to pull the motor out :happy055:
JeremyC
03-09-06, 01:47 PM
Tractors work good as engine hoists too.
I hope my dad doesn't see this thread.
MobileAudio219
03-09-06, 04:48 PM
You know, with real cars you use a cherry picker to pull the motor out :happy055:
You CAN pull the motor from the top, but its far less fun... Give me air tools I could have that motor and trans out in an hour...
TechSys
03-18-06, 11:42 AM
Hey Ryan, you should do a 3400 swap in that retta. It'd be far better than going with another 2.8 or 3.1.
I've gotta get my driver side door to close good. For some reason when closed it leaves a gap I can stick my cut finger through. That ain't good for spl... (of course neither are the amps and subs I have right now.. that will be fixed though, probably before the door does)
Ryan from Ohio
03-18-06, 05:47 PM
Well I found a 2.8 for $100
A trans for $40
And someone to take out the old and put in the new for $100
I know I cant find a 3400 for close to that. Also I got a 3100 and a 3400 in my two other cars. The 3400 in my 2000 Alero has some blow by @<hidden> the intake gasket-head area. I hear these motors are notorious for that...
For what I want the car for I think Im just going to stick to the above plan. Im not worried really about "performance". But if I was worried about performance I would be stuffing a V8 in it and doind a rear wheel drive conversion ;)
Hopefully the engine swap will happen early next month...
Ryan from Ohio
04-03-06, 04:49 PM
Currently working on rear brake cylinders and pads all the way around. Took off the first rear tire to discover the shock blown/rusted so badly it appears to be shrapnel... no joke, crazy! So I will be replacing rear shocks now also...
WIll be purchasing the motor this weekend/monday. Hopefully the trans on the motor will work in this car. There are twot rans variables dependant on vin numbers... The early cars had a cheap trans, to bad mines the newer version :(
Ryan from Ohio
04-06-06, 05:27 PM
Ok Rear brakes completely rebuilt with new everything. New shocks installed in back.
I went today and bought the motor and trans. Hopefully it will be here by the weekend. I am going to remove the old engine and install this one myself. Wish me luck!
The guy quoted me @<hidden>$687 to do a motor swap. Obviously not going to pay that!!!
Starting to rethink the sub stage. Its really up in the air... I was orignaly thinking multiple subs, now Im thinking a single 15" and a massive box. Whatever it is will have an adjustable port with custom made aluminum flares... hehe
So single 15" with 900 WRMS into 1 Ohm or 1000 WRMS into 2 Ohm, Arc KAR amps Im thinking...
William from NOLA
04-06-06, 06:42 PM
Yea, go single sub.
Luck wished!
audiobass10
04-06-06, 08:06 PM
Are you doin this for a loud daily driver or something competitive?
ridr4lif
04-06-06, 08:09 PM
What kind of sub are you thinking also?
yea im with dave your not gonna do shit in competiton with only 1kw...
Ryan from Ohio
04-07-06, 05:01 PM
yea im with dave your not gonna do shit in competiton with only 1kw...
This is where you are wrong.
As you know it goes off of cone size and fuse size.
Less fuse and less cone= lower class. Look at MECA's standings... There are plenty of instances where some of the lower classes are hitting higher numbers then the "big boys". Also where the lower classes are beating out over half the ranked people the next level up...
I may toss more power at it, dunno. All depends on what sub I buy ;)
yes i understand that but it doesnt go by watts. its goes by efficency. guys in your class street 2 if you can get 50-60 amps of fusing. are running as of now 2-3kws. dont get me wrong i like seeing guys with low power stomp guys with big power but i think you will be at a major disadvantage. i was hitting high 140s on 60 amps of fusing and 1 15 but with 4kws.
audiobass10
04-07-06, 05:24 PM
Yea, and if you're gunna run power that low in MECA you're gunna wanna eliminate Class A/B amps.
Ryan from Ohio
04-07-06, 05:48 PM
The ARCs I posted are class D.
The car is mainly for myself, not to compete. By the time Im done with the box and such with MECA rules I would be in some modified class or something silly. So its not going to be built to compete per say.
Again all amps are up in the air and all dependant on sub selection. Im having a very difficult time picking a sub. Thinking the new Havoc sub... dunno though...
Ryan from Ohio
04-09-06, 04:37 PM
Ok wonderful progress made today!
I started tearing the engine OUT! I got almost all the wiring and hoses out.
I forgot how compact the Beretta really is! My hands are a bit sore but nothing a night of good rest wont fix!
Now to get a Cherry Picker over here and go get the new engine!
The shop I bought the motor at quoted me almost $900 to remove and install the new one- 13 hours of Labor. While it may take 13 hrs to do, my time is much cheaper at the moment :p
kevinberry1
04-09-06, 09:18 PM
The shop I bought the motor at quoted me almost $900 to remove and install the new one- 13 hours of Labor. While it may take 13 hrs to do, my time is much cheaper at the moment :p
Go get em Ryan! I'm sure you can do a great job and save some serious $.
Darthness
04-09-06, 11:11 PM
it shouldn't take 13 horus to swap an engine.... this is for a different car, but i've herd of 2 people doing it in like 45 minues, in a parking lot of a car dealership with a pack of beer. :P
JeremyC
04-10-06, 03:48 AM
Dart it takes a while when your talking about a side winder in a car that size. It took my dad and me about 6 hours to pull the motor in my 90 grand am.
Yeah I am sure you could pull a motor in 45 min, but the car would have to be about 90% disconected before you start, or you would have to be talking about a muscle car with nothing under the hood but motor.
Darthness
04-10-06, 05:42 AM
who said me? :P maybe it was an hour or two (sorry).. it was an old thread on another board. 13 horus just seemed like a long time :P
Ryan from Ohio
04-10-06, 04:29 PM
Well in all honesty at the pace I worked yesterday maybe 3 hours to get where Im at. And I dicked around removing other items also...
Gotta go work right now!
bye!
Ryan from Ohio
04-15-06, 07:41 PM
I will get pictures tomorrow...
But as of 1/2 hour ago the orignal motor/trans is OUT of the car!
Its been real fun up to this point... Im sure reinstalling the new motor/trans will be even more spectacular!
Ryan from Ohio
04-20-06, 07:07 PM
Ok more work done!
Going to start the motor reinstall this weekend!
Today I worked on the passender door panel. I got all the holes trimmed in the glass for the speakers. I need to patch two areas and do some grinding in others. Then time to cover it!
Hope to have motor in car and running Sunday.
Hope to have door panels finished by next weekend!
William from NOLA
04-20-06, 08:36 PM
Sweet, you are really coming along!
Ryan from Ohio
04-23-06, 03:57 PM
Well new motor and trans is pretty much installed.
I need to finish up some loose ends by putting the power steering pump, alternator and radiator back in.
Im currently waiting/trying to decide what I want to do for the AC Compressor. THe one with this motor is junk. Which is OK as I yanked all the AC stuff anyhow... But the A/C Delete pulley is not instock at the only aftermarket place that makes them.... GM Has them but I will be waiting on the UPS guy I guess.
Oil pan is dented in pretty damned bad. Afraid Im going to have to pull it off and get another...
Maybe another 2 hours of reinstalling and she will be done/running.
Door panels! I cut the speaker holes out in the glassed one:
http://caraudiocentral.net/ryan/images/beretta/dp3.jpg
Darthness
04-23-06, 04:05 PM
nice!
Chris from MI
04-23-06, 04:05 PM
Damn, that is going to have some weight to it.
good god man!! what kind of speakers are going to fill ALL those holes?
OnYrMrk
04-23-06, 04:45 PM
loud ones!!!
William from NOLA
04-23-06, 05:15 PM
Woah!! That is nice!!!
It's going to be so sweet.
swimmerdude
04-23-06, 05:27 PM
System:
20 4" Extended Range Drivers from Partsexpress.com
8 3/4" Dayton Tweeters from Partsexpress.com
6 12" Resonant Engineering RE series subs
1 1/2" Cubes per sub, tuned to 34 Hz
-as stated on first page-
that is going to be insane
Ryan from Ohio
04-23-06, 05:45 PM
Well sub stage is still up in the air at the moment.
Im really debating on it with the funds I have.
The though so far is to just go ahead and build a big ass ported box. Like 6 cubes big... Then have a removeable baffle so I can change out sizes from 12, 15 and 18" subs. The front baffle will be 1 1/2" thick... Reinforced to all hell and resined...
The port will be adjustable via wheel... I want port tuning to be able to change from 20 Hz- 100 Hz...
anything over 80hz is illegal so y go to 100? also y waste the time just find the resonant freq and tune to that? or just make a 32hz port and a whatever hz box. just go with this ryan get a single 15 or a single 18 4.5-5 cubes for a 15 and 5.5-6.5 cubes for an 18. depending on model. make the back wall movable so you can change the airpace.
Ryan from Ohio
04-23-06, 06:54 PM
Just because I can tune that high doesnt mean I will ;)
Another reason for the adjustable tuning is as I change subs out the subs displacement will change. Which in end will change the tuned freq...
Moving wall? Now thats a tad far fetched. Yes it can be done and I actually thought about that. But the work required would be insane and it would have to be metal and very smooth!
Lol, way to much work IMO.
its not insane infact most of the guys who build comp walls do it. it may change for you but i went from 1 MT 15 - 2 MT 15s - 1 MT 18 each in diffrent boxes the 15 was in a 2.95 cf the 2 15s were in approximitly 3.75 and the one 18 was in 6.25 after all of those my truck was the loudest at 54hz. everyone one of those wanted 54hz. all boxes were tuned to 48...
Airforceyooper
04-23-06, 10:58 PM
Since every frequency has a wave length, shouldn't the distance of the sub wall to the mic and the frequency at which you tune the system be in relation to each other?
What I mean is ... if you know the mic is going to be at a particular point in the windshield, and you know where the wall is going to be built, and that distance is, let's say 5'. Well, 5' is roughly the quarter lengh of 57hz depending on humidity and temperature. But you have to shoot for something, right?
You could even go as far as to make the distance from the sub wall to the back of the box the same distance as the distance to the mic so the sound waves traveling from the cone to the back wall and then out the port would come out in phase with each other. Right?
Just throwing that out there. I remember reading something about this stuff a while back.
Bill, how do you determine tuning frequency and all that? Am I on the right track or am I just going overboard?
Ryan from Ohio
04-24-06, 04:45 PM
There is/was a formula floating around out there. If I recall corectly it will get you close, thats it.
The best way to tell is to run it on a mic.
People here are forgetting this one valuable piece of info on my system, its for me. Its not meant to go to a competition with all their rules and such. When its done, if its legal then I may compete. If not, no biggie.
:)
MobileAudio219
04-25-06, 12:09 PM
People here are forgetting this one valuable piece of info on my system, its for me. Its not meant to go to a competition with all their rules and such. When its done, if its legal then I may compete. If not, no biggie.
:)
I'd do the 6 12's if I were you, I mean you already have like a 1,000 speakers, whats 6 more?:happy055:
One day I'll complete (or atleast start on) my install....
i guess i just dont see the point in building an spl car that wont be used to compete. u wont be able to listen to it. so i just dont get it.
Ryan from Ohio
04-25-06, 04:22 PM
Bill buddy, this is going to be a daily driver. So if its something I cant listen to much I wouldnt bother.
This in no way is being built to just do one thing only and for 30 seconds or less. Its not being built for that purpose :p
TechSys
04-29-06, 06:32 PM
You'll be able to compete with it. Maybe not in full tilt dB drag, but will still be able to do bass race (which is hella fun). But, that's not your priority, your priority is setting the system up for yourself. Understandable there.
Now I gotta go back and see if you've posted pics yet. I need ideas..hehehe, just kidding, ain't gonna steal any ideas from you.
Ryan from Ohio
04-29-06, 06:41 PM
You want ideas, no problem.
Remove the rear window. Cut out that useless and limiting rear deck. Buy or make a rear shock tower brace. Strart building a box out of 1" MDF. Screws every 4" and a healthy shot of Liquid Nails. Leave the front baffle off until done. Glue in some nicely cut 3" PVC in quarter rounds... Then take some thin mat and line the 5 sides.
Now make the fronjt baffle 2" thick. Use Titebond to secure the pieces with a few strategicaly placed screws that will remain behind. Add a third piece around the perimiter for the removeable baffle board. Use 1" Solid oak for this baffle mount so its good and sturdy. Im making mine about 4" wide and using multiple carriage bolts to hold the baffle in place...
The port... Well I havent quite done the design but the idea is in my head...It will actualy have two different diameters... Has to so it can telescope... Such is life :attitude
TechSys
04-30-06, 03:48 PM
Wow.. that was right to the point... hehe
I am thinking about something, not sure if it'll work though. It will practically take all box resonating out, if done right. I am talking about floor tiles - grout and all.
Only problem is trying to find some tiles that would look good in a car. :)
Ryan from Ohio
04-30-06, 04:56 PM
Go for the tiles you see in the floor os grocery stores. That stuff has like a 20-25 year commercial gaurntee. For home use its lifetime. I just installed some in my bathroom. Still need to put the gloss coat stuff on, but the stuff is somewhat flexible. YOu can cut it with a jig saw, just have plenty of extra blades...
i think hes talking ceramic or quarry tile......
TechSys
05-02-06, 02:42 PM
I get tiles from a place called ProSource. The last batch I got are 3/4" thick and will barely be cut with carbide hole bits (for cutting around pipes). We even broke a diamond tipped bit on these tiles. They are 20" x 20" and would be great for extra "support" on an 3/4" walled enclosure and having 1/2" mortar in between the MDF and tiles (a total of 2" thick walls, wow!)
I'm not sure I am going to do it though. Tiles are expensive and a pain to cut and make look nice.
Ryan from Ohio
05-23-06, 06:41 PM
Still at a stand still, in other words car wont start.
Sorry but I cant waste time installing in a car thats not going to run, well yet :p
Hopefully by next weekend I will have it running. Im really stumped with it at this point.
Going to try a new battery and some plugs this week...
those cars are very prone to the ecu going bad in them and not starting......take it out and leave it connected but beat on it with your fist while someone cranks it over.....
Ryan from Ohio
05-23-06, 07:17 PM
whats an ecu and where do I find it?
Anything is worth a shot IMHO
I got about $500ish into it and I need it running!
ridr4lif
05-23-06, 07:46 PM
ECU = Electronic/Engine Control Unit
They are usually under the dash somewhere. SOmetimes under the hood.
Look for a box with a connector or 2 goin into it. Thats most likely it. Try to pick up a repair manual for your car if you can..might have its location in there somewhere.
it should be behind the glove box or in the passenger side kick panel...its a metal box with a connector or 3 going into it.....beating on it is an actual gm test for those things....the dealership has it in their system as a rap test........if you can beat on it and things get better or worse then you have your culprit.....
ridr4lif
05-23-06, 08:16 PM
beating on it is an actual gm test for those things....the dealership has it in their system as a rap test........if you can beat on it and things get better or worse then you have your culprit.....
I think that test is standard for every mechanic:thumbsup .
I think that test is standard for every mechanic:thumbsup .
mechanic....car audio installer.....anybody that owns a wrench:thumbsup
as much as i hate the place you could trailer it up to autozone and have them run a scan tool on it and see whats going on for free.
jasonc1976
05-23-06, 09:51 PM
ive changed a motor in a 92 chevy pickup with all the right tools and a very nice shop 3 hours but there was 7 guys lol good luck on that
ridr4lif
05-23-06, 09:53 PM
An ecu is a lot easier to change than a whole motor. And sure...with 7 guys its gotta go quick. I think we can do one in our shop in under a day (8 hours) with mostly 1 guy workin on it (a second guy to help here and there between jobs). Trucks arent bad, its little cars which are a p.i.t.a.
try a van once and you'll find out about p.i.t.a 's
Vans suck!! usually pull the motor out through the bottom. I've wacked a computer before that I...ahem...built and it fixed the problem. LOL it was a problem with the memory seating properly
Yea we did a few vans for head gasket changes, and im just glad we had a lift to help out
TechSys
05-24-06, 02:54 PM
Passenger side, behind the glove box. Big fugly metal box with wires connected to it.
Or just go and get a 3400 and all required stuff and do a good swap. I'm currently looking for a good mileage 3400 to start my project.
Ryan from Ohio
05-24-06, 04:52 PM
Thats way to much and performance oriented.
I could care less if the ebretta is like super fast or not.
Actually I would preffer a 4 banger, I could use the gas mileage ;)
the 3.4 engines are the least reliable out of the 31,34,38
TechSys
05-26-06, 01:39 AM
Yea, I kinda know what you mean Ryan. I, in a way, wish mine was a 4cyl, with the way gas prices are going. But, being the 3400 is just about a drop in replacement, it is far too tempting. Hell, with an added 3-400 pounds in the back of the car, I may need the extra power. Dunno though.
And Syris. The 3400 is the hottest thing going on with the Berettas, right now. There have been quite a few people who have done the swaps, without on bit of a problem. There has been one 3800SC swap that I know of, but that is far too much of a pain to do.
sinister audio
05-26-06, 02:51 AM
the 3400 is a POS motor. it might have a little power (for a beretta) but they have tons of problems. id rather take a 3.1 or a 2.8 in one anyday.
MobileAudio219
05-26-06, 10:24 AM
the 3400 is a POS motor. it might have a little power (for a beretta) but they have tons of problems. id rather take a 3.1 or a 2.8 in one anyday.
I HATE 2.8's....
sinister audio
05-26-06, 12:32 PM
the 2.8 is almost exactly the same as the 3.1 also its not the same as the S10 2.8
Chris from Washington
05-26-06, 01:16 PM
:argh
2.8!!!
run away!!!
TechSys
06-01-06, 07:45 PM
I have the 3.1 in my Beretta. It's damn near bullet proof, well, maybe not now.. it ran out of oil due to a leak. Got it fixed and still running strong, but has a couple new noises..hehe.
There are at least 4 people that have done the 3400 swap into a Beretta, all with satisfying results. There is one, that I know of, that has done a 3800SC swap.
I sort of wish I had a 2.2 right now with the way gas prices are. Hell, I may be getting a '94 crappylier with a 2.0 (maybe a 2.2, not sure) in it, very soon. I need more mpg and don't want to go honduh or any other import.
Then again. Would the 2.2 pull good mpg with 200lbs of subs, 150lbs of enclosure, and probably 30lbs of amps? Not counting extra batteries and such.. hmmmm.. It may, at 16 mph. hehe
MobileAudio219
06-01-06, 08:56 PM
the 2.8 is almost exactly the same as the 3.1 also its not the same as the S10 2.8
Yes I know that... The 2.8 in the s10s are tbi injected and MOST of the cars are mpi...
Either way you look at it though, they all suck... the 2.8's, 3.1's, 3.3's, 3.4's and 3.8s... Also go ahead and throw in all the quad 4's...:happy055:
Ryan from Ohio
06-04-06, 08:42 PM
Thats right bitches, the Beretta is alive!
Muhahahahaha
Found three broken vaccum lines, 1 alternator unplugged due to a power steering hose pulling it out and 1 crank position sensor wire unhooked in a very grimy hard to reach and no way to see area.
She smoked like a crack fiend for about 8 minutes then chilled out...
Im so stoked right now!
My $500 total investment has started its new life. By end of the week it will be on the road and in 2 weeks theres going to be a start of a system in it if it kills me!!!
:sm29: :sm29: :sm29: :sm29: :sm29: :sm29: :sm29: :sm29: :sm29: :sm29: :sm29: :sm29: :sm29: :sm29: :sm29: :sm29: :sm29: :sm29: :sm29: :sm29:
TechSys
06-04-06, 09:24 PM
Cool deal. Now you know we'll need the required pics of the install, as you get each step done... :)
Good to hear you got it running though.
William from NOLA
06-04-06, 11:18 PM
Man, that is awesome. Rock on!
in the words of the almight spl gods! Now get it loud!!!
Ryan from Ohio
06-05-06, 04:33 PM
Toying around trying to pry one of them 15" Elevation Executions out of Justins cute lil' hands ;)
If not that then I dunno what Im gonna get...
Ryan from Ohio
06-15-06, 08:21 PM
Interior is stripped all the way down except for the front dash...
Never had a car this stripped before! lol
Im going to install the alarm and sound dampen the vehicle where needed.
I will also be measuring up the areas for my sub box or wall... Need to know what to keep and what to cut out and toss...
I want to get my sude windows tinted and the rear glass tinted while there is no interior... I may just spray paint the side windows black. I will also paint the rear window black if I build a wall. No sense in looking and just seeing MDF...
Ryan from Ohio
06-20-06, 07:12 PM
I ordered 100 Sq Ft of Fatmat tonight.
I got some samples from them some time ago. Their extreme version is a bit nice but not worth the extra IMO. SO what its thicker and has foil?
All I want is mass loaded panels. Not pretty aluminum panels :rolleyes:
Ryan from Ohio
06-25-06, 05:28 PM
Trunk lid/spoiler painted installed. Hood and roof should be done tonight before dark.
I purchased my vinyl today at a nice discounted price.
Car is looking better. Still waiting on my FAT MAT...
Hopefully monday or teusday it will be in.
solacedagony
06-25-06, 06:02 PM
Awesome! Looks like things are going well.
Where did you order your vinyl from? Online or at a local shop? Also, if you don't mind me asking, where can I get carpet, vinyl, etc, etc online?
swimmerdude
06-25-06, 06:04 PM
I think www.partsexpress.com is pretty cheap, but I havent really searched around that much for it.
Ryan from Ohio
06-25-06, 07:57 PM
The Vinyl I bought for this project came from the local fabric store- Joann Fabrics.
It closely resemebles in terms of flexibility the stuff I got from Select Products.
I dont know how well it will work for me as I got some very strange curves/dips to accomidate...
I just hope the shit sticks right. I will be hot and heavy on the door panels fairly soon.
Ryan from Ohio
07-01-06, 03:16 PM
Tuebo he said!
HTTP://www.caraudiocentral.net/ryan/images/beretta/turbo1.jpg
HTTP://www.caraudiocentral.net/ryan/images/beretta/turbo2.jpg
Yes that is a turbo, yes at this point it going in the beretta providing I dotn need major mods to engine internal...
Yes its VERY VERY VERY rare find...
Yes it cost a small fortune in junkyard terms...
:sm29: :thumbsup
MobileAudio219
07-03-06, 08:43 PM
You wont be able to run much psi with the stock internals... You should of grab the complete motor, computer and wiring harness...
Ryan from Ohio
07-03-06, 10:18 PM
The 89-90 Turbo Grand Prix is the same 3.1 MPFI that went into the Berettas.
The only difference between my 2.8 and a 3.1 is bore and a little throw.
From my understanding its not unheard of to get this turbo up to 11PSI safely.
Most people only want about 6 for city driving, cruising, etc. But when the kid at the light wants to race, well then you need 11 PSI...lol
As far as computer, Im going to be grabbing that. Wiring harness? Blah, same as in my car ;)
Im gonna go for it guys! Just need to get an intercooler and some piping and get cracking on it
:sm29:
MobileAudio219
07-05-06, 02:32 AM
Uhm, you do understand that the 3.1's that were in the tgp's were specially built for forced injection, right?
Yeah, the bottom end is pretty much completely different than regular 3.1's, and for good reason... You'll find out this reason if you try to run 11 psi to your stock 2.8...
Here's a list of the differnce between the stock 3.1 and the modded ones built for the tgp's by Mclaren Engines.
http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php/topic,12387.0.html
If you are going to have to rebuild the engine to make it suitable for booast anyways, you might as well pick up the 3.1 block out of the tgp and a set of 3.4 heads. Also might want to get the tranny while your there. :happy055:
Ryan from Ohio
07-05-06, 05:17 PM
Damn...
Ive read on various forums about these. The consensus I got was it was the same exact engine just with a turbo fitted...
Well thats it Im gonna sell it off then.
Im not rebuilding the engine, thats for damned sure... Not worth it.
I just figured if I could bolt this bitch on it would be way cool!
MobileAudio219
07-05-06, 07:26 PM
Damn...
Ive read on various forums about these. The consensus I got was it was the same exact engine just with a turbo fitted...
Well thats it Im gonna sell it off then.
Im not rebuilding the engine, thats for damned sure... Not worth it.
I just figured if I could bolt this bitch on it would be way cool!
It really depends on how big of a project you want to take on...
As you know, you could take the turbo system and bolt it right up, run 5-6 psi and pray to the car gods that something doesnt break. BUT.... To do it right it would require ALOT more work... :help: :bow
If you really want to go turbo charged the easiest way would be to get the 3.1 out of the tgp, but I wouldnt even mess with it unless you budgeted in a rebuild... :sad017:
I know it sucks the big one...:argh
Ryan from Ohio
07-05-06, 07:41 PM
Well before your post opened my eyes, I was thinking at work...
Turbo'inbg the car would be cool. But the fact is Im about to slam probably 400+ Lbs of audio gear into it...
So why put such a rare item on a boat anchor?
So I put it up for sale on the Beretta boards. Asking $600 for the whole get up kit...
:sm29:
MobileAudio219
07-05-06, 11:44 PM
Yeah, thats true.... Did you ever figure out what you are going to run sub wise? I'm thinking about running 4 12" ascendant audio assassins or 2 15" ascendant audio avalanches in the blazer.... Damn, I wish I had more money right now.:sad017:
Ryan from Ohio
08-06-06, 10:17 AM
http://caraudiocentral.net/ryan/images/beretta/dp4.jpg
:sm29:
:dance
fun!!! will it bolt up or do you have to remove some metal too?
Ryan from Ohio
08-06-06, 12:00 PM
thats over the existing door panel ;)
but do you have the depth behind the existing door panel?
Darthness
08-06-06, 12:22 PM
nice. i'm willing to bet that'll be very loud :P
MobileAudio219
08-06-06, 12:23 PM
http://caraudiocentral.net/ryan/images/beretta/dp4.jpg
:sm29:
:dance
Can I.... touch it?:confused
That *might* be loud...:evil001: Have you hooked it up yet to see how she sounds?:dance
Darthness
08-06-06, 12:24 PM
so you're running the SQX's in this car right/
audiobass10
08-06-06, 01:30 PM
Those things are gunna be killer..i've got about 15-16 of em myself and they sound good and get pretty damn loud just running of a little boom box reciever in my room. Keep in mind I've only ran hooked up 2 at a time. 10 in each door is gunna screammmmm!
MobileAudio219
08-06-06, 01:48 PM
If I'm ever in ohio I'm stopping by so I can hear it... and I dont care if you like it or not!
TechSys
08-06-06, 02:01 PM
I've got the same question as smoker. Will the panel go back on the door the way it is now, or do you have to remove some of the metal off the door?
btw.. I did a whopping 139.8 today. :) Just thought I'd throw that in here.
MobileAudio219
08-06-06, 02:06 PM
he glassed over the exsisting door panel... the only thing that *might* pose a problems is the speakers themselfs hitting, but they dont look very deep... I say he's probably fine the way it is...
Ryan from Ohio
08-06-06, 02:30 PM
I glassed over the existing door panel.
Only thing I have to do ise remove like 3-4 of them 4" speakers and put a screwdriver on the inside to get one of the screws in. THe other two have holes under the arm rest.
I went with the carpet to cover all the many mistakes I made. Not bad for my first glassing project... THe carpet has two bad areas, the first you can see in the pick. Under the arm rest towards the rear. The other is where the door cup goes, its a flat piece there was no way to cut the carpet to cover it nicely...
Now to do the other panel. I gotta glue the wood on and do all the glass work to it.
Yes I hooked it up in my house. Im not sure how much power they were getting, but all them lil 4" speakers had some nice mid bass. The tweeters covered vocals well but to much power they bottomed out. No real high end freqs... :(
I may upgrade the tweets sooner than I thought :(
he glassed over the exsisting door panel... the only thing that *might* pose a problems is the speakers themselfs hitting, but they dont look very deep... I say he's probably fine the way it is...
that was what i meant...are the speakers going to be too deep in some spots so as to require removing some metal?
MobileAudio219
08-06-06, 05:01 PM
I bet it'll clear, and if it dont be nothing to cut a little metal away... If he pays for the plane tickets, beer and the strippers we'd go up there and help him do it, right?:thumbsup
Ryan from Ohio
08-06-06, 08:24 PM
Ummm... Ok lets say this again. I glassed over the original door card. The original door card looks like this:
http://www.caraudiocentral.net/ryan/images/beretta/dp1.jpg
So everything is on top of that, nothing goes thru it.
Darthness
08-06-06, 08:50 PM
you people jsut got owned. :P
lookin good though. what kind of spl goals are you setting for yourself?
MobileAudio219
08-07-06, 12:01 AM
you people jsut got owned. :P
Not me, I knew the whole time.. :argh
Ryan from Ohio
08-07-06, 08:30 PM
Well Im sure this info in somewhere like 6 pages ago ;)
No ownage. I guess its easy to forget about someone elses project when it takes 6 months to complete :(
MobileAudio219
08-08-06, 08:58 AM
Well Im sure this info in somewhere like 6 pages ago ;)
No ownage. I guess its easy to forget about someone elses project when it takes 6 months to complete :(
You built up the section where the speakers are mounted, correct?
Darthness
08-08-06, 10:11 AM
Well Im sure this info in somewhere like 6 pages ago ;)
No ownage. I guess its easy to forget about someone elses project when it takes 6 months to complete :(
so yah, what subs are you goign to be running? :P
MobileAudio219
08-08-06, 04:03 PM
It's a secret...:happy055:
vBulletin® v3.7.2, Copyright ©2000-2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.