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  1. #21
    Moderator GlassWolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Luffy View Post
    Hi, My ICE is running in three way seven channel full active Focal Utopia BE with Alpine H800 processor, mid bass installed at door panel, high mid and tweeter installed at custom A-pillar (on-axis position, facing under roof lamp.
    Firstly, I'm not a fan of using the A-pillar at all. It makes signal path lengths uneven unless you drive a McLaren F1 GTR, and too short as well. The Kick panels are a better location for upper mids/highs, as this gives a longer signal path length and typically better imaging and sound

    Quote Originally Posted by Luffy View Post
    I'm having difficulties of inaccurate staging image during time alignment adjustment. I'm started the time alignment adjustment with high mid first, at the same time, i put on mute on my tweeter, mid bass and sub-woofer.
    This is most likely being caused by the steep Q used in the XO frequencies, and primarily, by reflections off of surfaces like car windows. If you want more info on stage and image, take a look at the FAQ section here, or at caraudio.glasswolf.net under "speakers"

    Quote Originally Posted by Luffy View Post
    My high mid crossover point set at HPF 400hz/24db, LPF 4000hz/24db,then i am using the ruler to measure left/right high mid and it's resulted 35cm PLD, therefore time delay its about 35cm(1.0ms).
    Try using 12dB Q instead of 24dB/octave. 24dB is good for a LPF for a sub, but for midbass I'd go with 18dB, and 12 for mids/tweeters. In my own car using a 3-way front stage I have 6dB slopes on the 3-ways with 18dB on the sub. It gives a much smoother transition from one speaker range to the next.

    Quote Originally Posted by Luffy View Post
    After that, I am using mono pink noise with 1ms time delay adjustment, the focus was is really accurate, but just cannot get a center image, it's shifted to driver side position .
    again, caused by the short and uneven signal path length combined with reflection of the glass surrounding the speakers.


    GlassWolf (aka KikiTheCat)
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  2. #22
    Master of My Domain
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    Quote Originally Posted by GlassWolf View Post
    Try using 12dB Q instead of 24dB/octave. 24dB is good for a LPF for a sub, but for midbass I'd go with 18dB, and 12 for mids/tweeters. In my own car using a 3-way front stage I have 6dB slopes on the 3-ways with 18dB on the sub. It gives a much smoother transition from one speaker range to the next.
    \

    I agree with running the mids and tweets at 12db an octave, I also agree that 6db with his install is to shallow. But for t/s his staging problem I think 24 is a better option.

    Once he gets the image problems straitened out, he can bump the x-over back to 12, and adjust from there.


  3. #23
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    Sorry for late reply. I will tune my car on wednesday, and i will show all the picture at here :-)
    Thanks for help and good advise from u all.

    Actually i am from Malaysia, just wonder where the country u all come from?


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