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any of you guys ever use the dei 555f?

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Topic review
   

Expand view Topic review: any of you guys ever use the dei 555f?

by Ranger SVO » Sun Jan 01, 2006 2:50 pm

Transponder in the key. No problem to program if it has only the two original keys programed to it. If a third key has been programmed (the problem I had) it needs to be reprogrammed for two and then the bypass can be programmed as the third key.

Gray key = transponder
Black key = no problem

The Grand Cherokee I did was an 04 model ( I still have bad dreams about it)

by smoker » Sun Jan 01, 2006 2:31 pm

do they need resistors too? i have done a grand cherokee but the easiest by far is the dakota with no factory security system, infinitis are not a lot of fun at all either......you must be in damn good shape dude, to be 46 and turn upside down under a dash is pretty good, i have a hell of a lot harder time at 34 than i did at 24......

by Ranger SVO » Sun Jan 01, 2006 12:45 pm

No, but I've done a Jeep Grand Charokee that was a nightmare.

by smoker » Sun Jan 01, 2006 11:29 am

ever do a jeep liberty? better have your resistor selection stocked up........took about five relays and a handfull of different resistors to get it right.....

by Ranger SVO » Sat Dec 31, 2005 8:29 am

While I have not used that brand of module, I have had extremely good luck with the learning bypass modules (working from memory, I'm not at the shop). The Ford has four wires coming of the key cylinder, one is power, ground and two data wires. Ground and the two data wires are spliced into while the power is cut. The Ford bypass module has an in and an out power wire. These wires cannot be reversed. During remote start the module take over (obviously), and reversing the wires will prevent the car from starting.

A mistake I made just recently. DO NOT assume that the red or black coming from the key cylinder is power and ground, I can assure you it is not.

The bypass module I prefer to use for Ford is an Omega piece, It works well and I personally have used 20-30 with no problems (except one or two installer screw ups)

by smoker » Fri Dec 30, 2005 7:43 pm

one other thing....with 98-99 up fords you have to have the 2 original keys to program a third key.......so if you guys touch a ford with the PATS on it make sure they bring you all the keys for programming and prepare them to spend 35 bucks on a new one at the dealer to guarantee a good key....

by smoker » Fri Dec 30, 2005 7:41 pm

it was a 02 ford explorer...you know how ford has those transponder keys? well dei offers a 555f bypass module for this thing that is supposed to be able to learn and transmit an acceptable frequency to bypass the PATS in fords and a few others, anyway it is junk.....i have yet to talk to anyone who has either been able to program it or have any luck over the long haul with reliability...there are some pretty ghetto ways to get around this that involves gutting the key and gluing the transponder to the key cylinder but i dont trust that, it works as long as the glue holds out but they make another module i believe is a 556u that holds a spare key inside and for my customers piece of mind i always offer to cut the teeth off the key before inserting it into the module and return the teeth to them if they seem to not like the idea of having an extra key under their dash......
On other thing, on most cars, ignition 2 and ignition 3 (if equipped), drop out during engine cranking. The remote start module MUST duplicate this
.

absolutely right....if you dont snatch the right wire you are gonna have issues with it doing anything more than cranking and then shutting off.....


and just to dispel a popular belief........you CAN put remote start on a standard and if done properly it is idiot proof......

by Ranger SVO » Fri Dec 30, 2005 7:31 pm

We use Autopage remote starts in my shop. But we always wire to all the ignition and accessory wires. There is also a brake wire that must be hooked up on every remote start that I've seen.

On other thing, on most cars, ignition 2 and ignition 3 (if equipped), drop out during engine cranking. The remote start module MUST duplicate this. I just corrected a problem this morning on a Chev Tahoe. The security light stayed on after remote starting because ignition 2 remained power during cranking. (my mistake). Test each ignition line, note what it does and make connections accordingly.

As far as security bypass what kind of car is it?

by smoker » Fri Dec 30, 2005 5:48 pm

Bwcad1 wrote:good luck guys lol im scared of remote starts


no reason to be scared bill......most of it wires up like an alarm, the only difference is 3 wires...starter, true ignition and true accessory....

by smoker » Fri Dec 30, 2005 5:46 pm

btw dont purchase a 555f module....they are complete crap and even the technical assistance guy told me to use the (i cant think of the number) one that places the key inside it.........we arent direct for dei due to local dealers but we can get stuff through wholesalers....anyway when i called tech. assistance....i was told they are not selling that module anymore because of the high failure rate.....

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