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Expand view Topic review: New to all this, so I came to learn!

by Ryan from Ohio » Fri Mar 06, 2009 5:10 pm

Aragorn wrote:Yea, I didn't mean to imply that a Fluke was in my budget. I'm actually more amazed he has more than one. I always get the "old" one. Sounds like a trip to Sears will do me just fine. Deal on sound dampening? I don't believe I've come across any reference to that.
http://www.caraudiocentral.net/forums/s ... hp?t=10815

by Chris from Washington » Fri Mar 06, 2009 3:53 pm

I've had a Fluke forever, 77 I think it is. Love it, those things last forever and are great to have.

Should check out Ebay for a used one.

by Aragorn » Fri Mar 06, 2009 3:48 pm

Ryan from Ohio wrote:I bought one at sears. runs about $20 and is plenty good for what we need. Flukes are nice but stupid expensive.
You might want to check out the forum discount on sound dampening... Its a good deal and who knows how long it will last.
Yea, I didn't mean to imply that a Fluke was in my budget. I'm actually more amazed he has more than one. I always get the "old" one. Sounds like a trip to Sears will do me just fine. Deal on sound dampening? I don't believe I've come across any reference to that.

by Ryan from Ohio » Fri Mar 06, 2009 8:55 am

I bought one at sears. runs about $20 and is plenty good for what we need. Flukes are nice but stupid expensive.

You might want to check out the forum discount on sound dampening... Its a good deal and who knows how long it will last.

by Aragorn » Fri Mar 06, 2009 8:23 am

It sounds like I just need to check my grounds. Every time I need a multimeter I go borrow one from a friend (He has at least three different Flukes). This makes me want to break down and buy one even more!

by falkenbd » Thu Mar 05, 2009 12:04 pm

Jon wrote:LOL! He has two Hondas. They don't have a frame. :p
Thats why it was in quotes. I have a honda as well.

There are usually structural parts built into the sheet metal, those parts should run the length of the car.

If you do in fact find an isolated sheet of metal in the car and needed to use it as a ground, you could use short runs of wire to connect it to part of the unibody that is grounded to the engine somewhere.

A full run of wire to the battery for a ground shouldn't be needed. If it is, I'd up the size of the wire you use for both power and ground.

by Tim » Thu Mar 05, 2009 11:46 am

Aragorn wrote: A bunch of pic whores! I love it. I actually bought a new digital just last year for occasions just like this. I'll be sure and do my part. :fing02:

LOL :bigwink:


Tim

by Jon » Thu Mar 05, 2009 6:42 am

falkenbd wrote:The ground thing is something you will have to work out as you go.

You could get away with just attaching the sheet metal in the trunk to the "Frame"...

You might just hook up your ground to some major body rails in the trunk and have everything work out great..

The ground from battery to trunk isn't usually needed, but if you are having low voltage issues, making your grounds better is something to look at.

LOL! He has two Hondas. They don't have a frame. :p

by falkenbd » Thu Mar 05, 2009 6:40 am

The ground thing is something you will have to work out as you go.

You could get away with just attaching the sheet metal in the trunk to the "Frame"...

You might just hook up your ground to some major body rails in the trunk and have everything work out great..

The ground from battery to trunk isn't usually needed, but if you are having low voltage issues, making your grounds better is something to look at.

by falkenbd » Thu Mar 05, 2009 6:39 am

The ground thing is something you will have to work out as you go.

You could get away with just attaching the sheet metal in the trunk to the "Frame"...

You might just hook up your ground to some major body rails in the trunk and have everything work out great..

The ground from battery to trunk isn't usually needed, but if you are having low voltage issues, making your grounds better is something to look at.

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