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If you do go for a HO alternator, look into Excessive Amperage Alts. I got mine for $260 shipped, most other places quoted me well over $300.

Btw, Ssoonr, did you buy your sub yet? I know Basstronics pointed out a few weeks ago http://www.cardomain.com was having a sale on factory renewed ID subs, not sure what models, but id definetly check it out. I want to say it was like $74 for one.

Sounds good man. My only sugestion follows what Jonathon said. I wouldn't worry about adding batteries or caps unless you really need to. I would do an optima yellow or red top under the hood, and an upgraded alt if you need it. Other than that i wouldn't worry about it.

SSoonr wrote:and yes the drycell would be used for when the car is off

Even if it is for when the car isn't running it will still be conected to the electrical system, and there for require charging from the alt if the car is running. Unless you have a way to fully remove it from the system. IMO I would just start the car if you are going to be listening for a while. A system of decent size will run down any battery, so to me it isn't really worth the trouble of disconecting, conecting, recharging, and then the added $$$ for the whole setup.

I guess you could use a set up like KIKI's but even then your talking about alot of extra $$ and a need for a larger alt due to the added draw on the charging system.

Thanks for your input Jonathan, I respect your opinion greatly when you first steered me towards the dynaudios with what you said over at ecousics. The cap was something the install shop suggested and threw in my "package" install price, and I have read many opinions on the "usefullness/effectiveness" on caps, but thought if they wanted to throw it in there that I would let them...

I have noticed that some people are having problems with finding last years 9835, but will definately start the search for myself to find one if I can... I didnt know that the 9855's were having prolems, but I appreciate the heads up on that. I was just going with the 55 due to its scroll bar that would go nicely with my ipod...

36mafia... I have heard that the yellow tops are just sealed acid batteries that still emit fumes in a car, and that a drycell would be a better option, as well as the drycell has a larger amp/min rating, allowing me to play my system for a longer period of time, and that cca's were not as important as keeping the flow of electricity going ot the amps... (technical jargon explained as well as I can remember it)

The SH-1 puts out somewhere around 2k rms, where the TO3 bridged is 1k rms @4ohms... so I am assuming the electrical system will definately have to be upgraded some, and I have spoken with TRU and they suggested the added drycell battery and try to use a HO alt as a last resort for reliability reasons... (and yes the drycell would be used for when the car is off)

Thanks for the input, anyone else?

wow everything sounds great assuming that sub amp is 1000rms bridged, only things i would do is forget the interstate battery, forget the dry cell battery, if youre going to get any battery get the yellow so all the power can be pulled from there, or you can go straight for a HO alternator just make sure it keeps a decent voltage idle.

All great equipment, me personally, I wouldn't worry about the capacitor or battery until you find out if you have any alternator issues. Any extra batteries/caps are an extra load on stock alternators and will kill them that much quicker if your charging system isn't sufficient. Really neither the dry cell or capacitor is needed unless you're simply dedicating the dry cell battery for use while the car is off. That alternator is the heart of the electrical system. The ID Max will work well with that level of power, keep in mind it would be headroom as that sub will reach near it's capabilities with under 1000W RMS in most cases (especially sealed/infinite baffle). XXX would be a good choice with that power level as well, but with the components you plan on, the ID Max has better midbass transition IMO. As far as head units, I personally would go for last years CDA-9835 instead of the 9855, better SQ function, and the new Alpine head units have had some problems. The line driver can aid, but the Alpine preouts will do the job in most situations as long as the install is taken into account.

Begining the finalized list stage and would like the blessing of some members before I start my spending...

HU: Alpine 9855
Front Components: Dynaudio 240 MKII
FC Amp: TRU 4.100 or a 2.100
Sub: IDMAX 10"
Sub Amp: TRU SH-1 or a bridged T03 2.250

Sub to be put in a custom sealed fiberglass box @ around 1 cu. ft.
Two 31 band EQ's
Custom kickpanels... because, well, why not
odyessy dry cell battery in the back
Interstate battery for the engine
1.5 farad cap

The choice between the amps depends on the seller of the SH-1/4.100 that is taking his time and jacking me around... so might just go witht he TO3 and another 4.100...
Is there anything major I am missing?
Would it be benifical to pick up a audio control overdrive that would boost my preamp signal to 24db from alpines pewney 1db?
TREO/RE XXX/IDMAX/whatever- a better choice for my small sealed enclosure sub with the 1000-2000 rms @ 4 ohms that I would give it...

Thanks for any comments/suggestions...