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umm honestly I could barely understand what you were asking. The grammar and sentence structure and spelling was so far off on that sentence, it was incomprehensible. No offense.

If I get what you said, you think going active gives a steeper crossover slope, which isn't true.
The slope depends on the amplifier or crossover with active, or the order of filter built for passive crossover networks.
I can built passives anywhere from 6dB to 24dB or I can use an electronic crossocer to go active that allows me to vary from 6 to 24dB as well.
The real advantage to an active crossover is how finely you can tweak all of the settings.. like if you require a slope between 2nd and 3rd order, or you need to diminish power to the midranges just a hair compared to the tweeters, and so forth. That's all dialed in on the crossover like setting a 1/3 octave EQ. With the passive network, you lose a bit of power through the filters (not substantial) and you have to design and build the filters to the specs you desire first. You can't go back and alter a frequency or slope a little after they're built without rebuilding the filter network by swapping out caps or chokes.

the drawback to active is the cost of the electronic crossover, EQing, and separate amplifier channels for every speaker in the system, not to mention the wiring hassle.

did i get rep points from some one
well that 50 me
and bwcad 1081 almost cought u
o and here is what 1 point for all that posted here
never really do that half to start
someone thinks "duuu thats what u are supposed to do" :)

edit dont think it worked said
"You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to GlassWolf/Bwcad1 again."

well nice choice of words :)

GlassWolf wrote:lots of room to work in a van.

thats what i like about it well that and the padded floor its not very gas freandly though
but why i was thinking active is (dont know but) octave levels is active higher db i just didnt want cancelation with the midbass and subs do u think that would be a problem

p.s. gess i stuck with the banners under my name lol

lots of room to work in a van.
you could put the 8" in the lower doors, 50-500Hz, midrange and tweeter higher in the doors, at 500Hz and up with their own crossover.
If you want active crossovers, you'll need an amplifier channel for every speaker. That gets a little expensive and complex, but it's possible.

i like the avatar :)
not too big on the title though

ryan i think you can change his avatar and title back now i feel bad for him!

i need help with a active cross over some thing i cane fine tune with
any ideas

well i have a 89 dodge converson van
15'' sub sealed box with 2000 watts rms
midbass 8'' kicker with a small amp i have in stock door loc
pioneer 6.5 crossed for mid range ethier in kickpanel or dog house
jus in planing stage i have all of the above but the sub amp about to buy hifonics amp and pioneer hu
i have read alot of your (glass wolf) posts and u must know what u are talking about as do many on this site so any help would be taken in to great consideration
sorry bout the spelling

depends on the car, speaker locations, and the rest of the system, as well as your ears, musical preferences, available power, and so forth.
need more details, like a system outline, how you plan to power and cross over the midbass and tweeters, what the other speakers are and where you plan to put everything, in what car...
details.

can anyone help with a good set of tweeters
also what is a good starting point for midbass frequency
tks for any help guys