240volt Residential Wiring Help

lotas · Post by **lotas** » Thu Nov 06, 2008 9:43 am

Hey Guys, I'm putting in a new stove in my house and I had to replace the 3-wire 240volt wire powering the stove I have now, as 4-wire is now code.

Anyways I have the new 6-3 wire, I've ran it to the box, but I'm still too afraid to work on the box, as I don't have a great schema for residential electrical work. I'm well aware 240volts can kill you, therein lies my fear.

Now I realize with everything shutoff, the only live wires are the 3 main wires feeding the box, correct? If the 2 hot wires are feeding the hot bus bar, then isn't the hot bus bar going to remain hot even with everything off? In that case, the only fear is bumping the hot bus bar or one of the two main wires/terminals with a screwdriver or another wire, shorting it and causing it to arc?

Just looking for a few clarifying questions, I've got a few books on residential electrical work but I'd rather be safe then, well, dead.

Ryan from Ohio · Post by **Ryan from Ohio** » Thu Nov 06, 2008 12:10 pm

Cut the main power, should be the top circuit breaker. Run your wires as you would. If your new wires are going to anew/old circuit, remove that breaker. Add wires. Finish wiring up your plug. THEN put the breaker into its slot. turn on the main power. Then turn on that breaker.

Should be fine.

Bwcad1 · Post by **Bwcad1** » Thu Nov 06, 2008 12:17 pm

Check with your DMM if you still question it. AC 500v setting.

cargodz · Post by **cargodz** » Thu Nov 06, 2008 2:47 pm

^Agreed... If you're still questionable then you can check it with a dmm, but if you kill the main breaker you should have no power to the rest of the box.

MobileAudio219 · Post by **MobileAudio219** » Thu Nov 06, 2008 3:40 pm

Make sure youre using the right amp breaker as well....

scotts1000rr · Post by **scotts1000rr** » Thu Nov 06, 2008 6:35 pm

Always check with meter even if you THINK its off make sure!!!!

lotas · Post by **lotas** » Fri Nov 07, 2008 11:05 am

Thanks for the replies guys...I appreciate it.

I'm gonna do a little messing around with my DMM tonight...my main breaker isnt at the top like most, it's halfway down the right side of the breakers. Does that mean its only going to control those below it, or does it still make the whole hot bus bar live, making every breaker live?

And last question. The existing breakers for the range are two single 50amp ones....not ONE breaker that takes up TWO slots, but two separate 50amp breakers. I can't remember the correct terms right now so forgive me. But as I understand it, a 240volt breaker is typically a double breaker. Does it make a different? I realize either way you're getting 120volts twice from the hot bus bar, but is there any safety issues with that setup?

Ryan from Ohio · Post by **Ryan from Ohio** » Fri Nov 07, 2008 3:22 pm

Well thats not correct.

I cant remember if theres some other reason, but I know on the double breakers the switches are connected so they both trip.

I would get the correct breaker first off.

Secondly, I would run wires to and wire the breaker, then push it into its slot.

scotts1000rr · Post by **scotts1000rr** » Fri Nov 07, 2008 6:56 pm

Ryan from Ohio wrote: I know on the double breakers the switches are connected so they both trip.

Thats so it shuts off the entire appliance not just one side,plus you are saying you have 2 50amp breakers, that is double what it should be, a 240volt breaker would be a total of 50amps not 50 each side.

Ryan from Ohio · Post by **Ryan from Ohio** » Sat Nov 08, 2008 4:54 am

Theres my breaker.

The bottom two breakers I added. One for my A/C and one for my kids electric heater in her room. Only one works per season

Now the stove is the dual 40 Amp.

I would get the proper breakers. For $12 its not worth the risk.