installing audio for my car type?

kevinberry1 · Post by **kevinberry1** » Wed Apr 12, 2006 12:15 pm

High Society wrote:So you have two batts? Or just one and its located under your seat? even if you have two it still wont make a diff. You need to upgrade your alt. Even with 600 watts you'll be seeing some dim.
As for amps I'd take any except the Ma Audio amp. And for Hifonics make sure it's 05 and up model.

I think you'll be okay running up to 1000 watts off a stock system unless your alternator is really weak. I've had a system in my 99 Accord for 2 years with no problems. I used to have a 750 watt mono amp and had no dimming at all, and now I only have slight dimming while running 1 1000 watt amp and 1 200 watt amp, and I really have to crank it to get any dimming of the head lights.

High Society · Post by **High Society** » Wed Apr 12, 2006 12:25 pm

hmm what size alt are you guyz running? I got dim in one of my cars with 80-100amp alt of 600-1000 watts

kevinberry1 · Post by **kevinberry1** » Wed Apr 12, 2006 12:32 pm

High Society wrote:hmm what size alt are you guyz running? I got dim in one of my cars with 80-100amp alt of 600-1000 watts

I just remembered, I installed a cheap amp/sub combo in my wife's car and her lights dim with about 400 watts. It is a lightning audio mono amp and one Orion 10. I'm not sure what's up with that, but it is a Hyundai so who knows

Dragon_fire · Post by **Dragon_fire** » Wed Apr 12, 2006 12:59 pm

must be something with accords because im running ~ 1000 watts perfectly fine in an 02 accord with no noticable dimming or ill effects. I think the alt is stock @ ~ 100. Either way I have a 150 sitting in my closet waiting for a nice day to swap them out.

kevinberry1 · Post by **kevinberry1** » Wed Apr 12, 2006 1:04 pm

Dragon_fire wrote:must be something with accords because im running ~ 1000 watts perfectly fine in an 02 accord with no noticable dimming or ill effects. I think the alt is stock @ ~ 100. Either way I have a 150 sitting in my closet waiting for a nice day to swap them out.

Where did you get your alt? I was thinking about upgrading mine in the future if I start to have any problems. I'll probably replace the battery first though, it is a bit small. BTW, your accord is the same body style as mine if it is the sedan. Do you have the v6 or 4 cylinder, mine is a 4.

Dragon_fire · Post by **Dragon_fire** » Wed Apr 12, 2006 1:27 pm

Its most likly just a rewound stock alt that I bought off ebay. The faq should list stores that sell direct replacements. If not just search ebay for accord (year) alt, or something along those lines, accord high output something like that.

As for the OP, just do a google search for "Remove bmw (year) door panel" etc. Should find more then enough help out there for your year/model.

sonso_chi · Post by **sonso_chi** » Wed Apr 12, 2006 5:24 pm

my alt is 140amps, i have no idea if that is a hot or cold reading.

It leaves me curious as to which one is usually reported for which I will assume applies in my case.

It's a big car with a V8 so it may need the juice. I don't know.

My old set up was a 95 Benz C220 with a 90a alternator, 1500w (rms of course) HiFonics amp (model made before 1995) that I'm sure was putting out at least 1000w. Regardless, it pounded and I had that with 2 caps (I know many are frowning) for 3 years minimal dimming and no problems, until I did some gymnastics in my car but that is no fault of the audio system.

I'm leaning towards the 12"s as I don't pound my system all the time but I may want to show of for limited time periods at times

btw, the resource I found was a forum for BMWs and some people on there break down the install for a car very similar to mine.

I already ordered Knukonceptz 4ga wiring.
I'll order my subs and amps when I figure out what I want, possibly as soon as a few hours....

thanks

Ryan from Ohio · Post by **Ryan from Ohio** » Wed Apr 12, 2006 6:05 pm

Ok, I got questions.

Is the only battery in the trunk? If so I highly sugguest looking at and upgrading the wiring from the alternator to the battery. May as well do the big 3 all at once.

As for running power wire. Just try to find where the other wires are going. See if you can sneek it along side them. Drilling a new hole is always the last resort.

I have found by my own errors the best way is to measure, mark, measure, measure, re check mark, drill SMALL hole to see if it comes out where you want it, then drill big hole.

For door panels. Start by looking for the obvious screws. Theres almost always one under the door handle cup, then there is ALWAYS one @ the grab bar where you pull the door shut. Then gently try to pry the panel off. WHen I say gently I mean it will require force, but dont go beserk on it. SOme of the plastic things will break. Take a sample to Auto Zone or such and get replacements. Otherwise the door panel may be funny.

sonso_chi · Post by **sonso_chi** » Wed Apr 12, 2006 6:59 pm

Ryan from Ohio wrote:Ok, I got questions.
Is the only battery in the trunk? If so I highly sugguest looking at and upgrading the wiring from the alternator to the battery. May as well do the big 3 all at once.
As for running power wire. Just try to find where the other wires are going. See if you can sneek it along side them. Drilling a new hole is always the last resort.
I have found by my own errors the best way is to measure, mark, measure, measure, re check mark, drill SMALL hole to see if it comes out where you want it, then drill big hole.
For door panels. Start by looking for the obvious screws. Theres almost always one under the door handle cup, then there is ALWAYS one @ the grab bar where you pull the door shut. Then gently try to pry the panel off. WHen I say gently I mean it will require force, but dont go beserk on it. SOme of the plastic things will break. Take a sample to Auto Zone or such and get replacements. Otherwise the door panel may be funny.

yep, the only battery is under the back seat which is easy to access (by pulling off back seat).

All the power wiring from alt to battery is already 4ga so I'm going to leave that alone. The alternator is actually hard to access in my BMW. I'd have to remove a bunch of engine parts to get to it.

Also, as far as my alt being 140 amps, I looked under the hood and could only see that the alt was well under other engine parts so there was no way for me to see. I had to find that information online.

The experts may frown on this but I just realized (edited my previous post) my old setup was a 90a alternator that handled a 1500w Hifonics (I assume put out at least 1000w, and the system did pound) with a 2F cap and minimal dimming, lasted 3 years before I wrecked that car. That car's battery was in the trunk. I did not change the power wire from the hood to the trunk but I used 2ga from the batt to amp.

My current car has a 140a alternator. I know I have a bigger car but based on past experience I figure it should be able to handle 1000w for at least 4 years (how long I plan to have the car). I won't be using the heated seats....

Thanks