My first sub enclosure design... opinions welcome!

MrSo0h0o · Post by **MrSo0h0o** » Tue May 26, 2009 8:53 pm

I have 2 10" RE RE series subs on the way(should be here tmrw!!) since my old sub and amp fried, so I decided to design an enclosure. It is a dual 10" enclosure with separate airspace for each sub. I calculated the internal volume to be .635 cubes per sub. That is without the sub displacement. So net internal volume is .535 cubes. It is a pretty basic box since I do not have many tools to cut the wood(I am going to see if the local lumber company has/will cut the 3/4" MDF for me). I have the tools to put it together so I figured this would be the best aka cheapest route. Honest opinions are welcome!!
Enclosure Rendering:

Exploded View:

Top/Bottom Pieces:

MrSo0h0o · Post by **MrSo0h0o** » Tue May 26, 2009 8:54 pm

pics cont'd:

Rear Piece:

Sides/Center Divide Pieces:

Face Piece:

MobileAudio219 · Post by **MobileAudio219** » Tue May 26, 2009 10:32 pm

I havent heard very many "good luck" stories about lumber yards producing straight cuts, but you have to do what you have to do. Maybe bet the guy 10 bucks that he can't get the cuts within a 1/16th, it might be some movation to put forth a soild effort on his part.

cargodz · Post by **cargodz** » Wed May 27, 2009 4:15 am

Most Home Depots have a panel saw which will at least give a straight cut at least (and 1st cut's free, some charge there after)... So if you take your tape measure and make your own marks they should get it dead money... And with the ones that charge for extra cuts, if they don't get it right, you don't have to buy it.

Ryan from Ohio · Post by **Ryan from Ohio** » Wed May 27, 2009 5:08 am

Ive done that before when I was short on time.

You have to feel the guy out. 99% of the time the people cutting the wood arent to bright (lowes/Home Depot) so I have every 4' strip cut 1" wider... Then I finish it off here.

Check the guys work before having it all cut up. If he can keep it to 1/32" that would be good. Thats my Tolerance. Anything over that then I gotta grind wood.

MrSo0h0o · Post by **MrSo0h0o** » Wed May 27, 2009 5:21 am

MobileAudio219 wrote:I havent heard very many "good luck" stories about lumber yards producing straight cuts, but you have to do what you have to do. Maybe bet the guy 10 bucks that he can't get the cuts within a 1/16th, it might be some movation to put forth a soild effort on his part.

I have read that it is hit and miss with HD and Lowe's. Some people said since it is their profession, a lumber yard would do better cuts

cargodz wrote:Most Home Depots have a panel saw which will at least give a straight cut at least (and 1st cut's free, some charge there after)... So if you take your tape measure and make your own marks they should get it dead money... And with the ones that charge for extra cuts, if they don't get it right, you don't have to buy it.

I might drop in at the HD tomorrow.

Ryan from Ohio wrote:Ive done that before when I was short on time.
You have to feel the guy out. 99% of the time the people cutting the wood arent to bright (lowes/Home Depot) so I have every 4' strip cut 1" wider... Then I finish it off here.
Check the guys work before having it all cut up. If he can keep it to 1/32" that would be good. Thats my Tolerance. Anything over that then I gotta grind wood.

Yea hopefully I can find someone who knows what they are doing. Would it sound bad if I ask him how precise he can make his cuts? Also, I highly doubt it, but do they do circular cuts? If not, what can I use to make them?

Bwcad1 · Post by **Bwcad1** » Wed May 27, 2009 5:30 am

Jigsaw or router

Ryan from Ohio · Post by **Ryan from Ohio** » Wed May 27, 2009 5:43 am

If you walk in with blueprints most people get real turned off by it.

Best approach is to lay it all out on the piece of wood. Draw up a 49 x 97 2D drawing and figure out the best use of material, leaving 1/8" for the blade per cut.

I draw it as such and write the cut along the 49" across the top. Then in each piece I write the length. That way its easy to understand and if need be they can see a picture.

95% of the time I just read off the cuts to them as we go.

Most people in these jobs dont have the attention span or desire to do your job for you...

MrSo0h0o · Post by **MrSo0h0o** » Wed May 27, 2009 6:10 am

Ryan from Ohio wrote:If you walk in with blueprints most people get real turned off by it.
Best approach is to lay it all out on the piece of wood. Draw up a 49 x 97 2D drawing and figure out the best use of material, leaving 1/8" for the blade per cut.
I draw it as such and write the cut along the 49" across the top. Then in each piece I write the length. That way its easy to understand and if need be they can see a picture.
95% of the time I just read off the cuts to them as we go.
Most people in these jobs dont have the attention span or desire to do your job for you...

Yea I was in the middle of laying out the pieces in a 4' x 8' piece of MDF. If I mess up, I have a whole other half to redo it lol:

Also, someone on DIYMA recommended to make it shared space rather than separate air space and cut a hole in the center divider. What are the pros/cons of each?

Ryan from Ohio · Post by **Ryan from Ohio** » Wed May 27, 2009 7:00 am

There is no con for keeping them separate at all.
Theres no pro to running them shared either.
If you run each sub to a channel, 2 channel setup you want them split with the divider.
If you are running them bridged it doesnt matter. But having them divided makes NO difference. Just gives you more option.
And also note they cant cut it how you have it drawn.
I did a quick example. Basically you will have your long cuts across the 49" section. Then the short cuts will be to cut the lengths.