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which route to take.

Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 12:51 pm
by Tim
Okay gang i need some opinions please. Heres the lowdown on my electrical:


1. Do the Big 3. Im planning on using 2 gauge for this. Unless someone has a better idea.

2. Main power wire is 2 gauge to Dist. Block.

3. 4 gauge from Dist. Block to amps.


Now here are the amps Im running:

1. Autotek SM1-1500 (subs).

2. Autotek SM2-1000 (front stage).


I spoke with Nate at Excessive Amperage, he said my truck came with either a 105 or 130 amp alt.

He said he has H.O. Alts. from 200 amps all the way to 300 amps.

200 amp= 345.00 shipped.

250 amp= 420.00 shipped.

300 amp= 480.00 shipped.

Now here is where I need you guys's help. With the electrical setup and amps Im using, would I be better off to go with a Alt from Nate, or just throw and extra battery in my truck for the system.

I have looked at the pros and cons of each: And I admit I am hesitant to add an extra battery inside my truck because I have my little boy in there the majority of the time. I know the batteries for our applications are sealed, but how sealed/safe are they??

I just need some help here and input and advice and...

Tim

Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 11:04 am
by Tim
anybody home?? Do I smell funny?? or...sniff..sniff. you guys just not like me anymore??

Tim

Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 11:19 am
by NorthQuad
It's been really slow around here.

Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 11:19 am
by Bwcad1
Tim wrote:anybody home?? Do I smell funny?? or...sniff..sniff. you guys just not like me anymore??
Tim
A upgraded front battery should be sufficient, never use anything larger than 2ga for your alternator. People will argue with me but there wrong. The post on the back of the alternator cannot support current greater than what 4ga wire can. If you use 1/0 wire the Bolt on the back of the alt will become in effect a resistor and get extremely hot to the point of melting. Use 4 Gage and you will be fine. This not only comes from personal experience but from Ohio gen and Nate from excessive.

Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 11:31 am
by loudwagon15s
ohhh, i have always wondered why 4 gauge is better than 1/0 for the big 3, makes perfect sense

Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 11:49 am
by NorthQuad
Maxxsonics has a video on their homepage doing the big three in 1/0.

I've told people to watch that video to learn how to upgrade the big three properly. Oops.

Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 11:52 am
by Bwcad1
NorthQuad wrote:Maxxsonics has a video on their homepage doing the big three in 1/0.
I've told people to watch that video to learn how to upgrade the big three properly. Oops.
yea that's Mike Stiers i know him personally and we have all voiced our concerns about it.

Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 11:59 am
by NorthQuad
Bwcad1 wrote:yea that's Mike Stiers i know him personally and we have all voiced our concerns about it.
I told a guy that installs car audio to go by this video. They're the only audio shop in his town. I need to get ahold of him before he melts peoples shit.

Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 12:17 pm
by loudwagon15s
wouldnt the only problem lie with the power wire connected to the alt + post? If so wouldnt 1/0 as the ground would be acceptable if not better?

Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 12:24 pm
by Bwcad1
loudwagon15s wrote:wouldnt the only problem lie with the power wire connected to the alt + post? If so wouldnt 1/0 as the ground would be acceptable if not better?
I suppose you could but it really wont make any diff. remember the shorter the length the greater the capacity so your bat to frame should only be about 2ft or so and 4ga over 2 feet can carry a shit ton of current.