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by **MobileAudio219** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 6:18 pm

smoker wrote:yea, my shop has a very level concrete floor. and yea i did the seat supports as well.
there are a bunch of tracks around here and people around here grow up at the races so consequently there are a lot of guys laying down good times with mostly stock setups. one buddy of mine runs a 13.22 consistenly with a 4v mod motor. stick shift car, all he does is bolt up a set of drag radials and he has the usuals, underdrives, gears and not much more, its all stock intake to pan though. guys are managing some real nice 60 ft. times and its making a huge difference at the big end.

I'm not saying it cant be done, but takes being a great driver and knowing your way around a car...

by **smoker** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 5:53 pm

I'm sure Terry had the car set up properly before welding them on...

Terry, does you SFC have seat supports???

yea, my shop has a very level concrete floor. and yea i did the seat supports as well.

there are a bunch of tracks around here and people around here grow up at the races so consequently there are a lot of guys laying down good times with mostly stock setups. one buddy of mine runs a 13.22 consistenly with a 4v mod motor. stick shift car, all he does is bolt up a set of drag radials and he has the usuals, underdrives, gears and not much more, its all stock intake to pan though. guys are managing some real nice 60 ft. times and its making a huge difference at the big end.

by **MobileAudio219** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 5:36 pm

ZeroAccess wrote:Thats not what ya said last night...

How did I know you were going to say that.

ZeroAccess wrote:And I agree, if I can stand and work on something expecially welding its just easier. Typically my welds come out a hella lot cleaner too

Well yeah, you're not getting burned as bad.

by **ZeroAccess** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 5:17 pm

MobileAudio219 wrote: Jacking shit (off) ...... and then laying on your back isnt my idea of fun...

Thats not what ya said last night...
And I agree, if I can stand and work on something expecially welding its just easier.
Typically my welds come out a hella lot cleaner too

by **MobileAudio219** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 5:14 pm

Tim wrote:drive on lift pfffh, real mechanics dont need no stinking drive on lifts.
Tim

If get paid hourly, nope they sure don't. If you get paid "book time" a lift is a very good investment..

Jacking shit up and putting it on jack stands and then laying on your back isnt my idea of fun...

by **MobileAudio219** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 5:09 pm

Tim wrote:drive on lift pfffh, real mechanics dont need no stinking drive on lifts.
Tim

When you install the sfc you need the car sitting level at all four corners, a drive on life is the absolute best way to insure nothing is being tweaked.

If you have a nice level concrete floor you can use ramps for the front tires, and jack stands under the rear axle. Basically you want to mimic the car sitting on its tires, on level ground, otherwise the body will flex.

So yeah, it can be done without a drive on lift, but it makes it harder to get it done right. Welding on your back isnt any fun either.

Like a said, a drive on ramp is the idea way. Most muffler shops will have the proper lift, usually they only charge 50-60 bucks to weld them on, a small price to pay to insure that everything is copacetic...

I'm sure Terry had the car set up properly before welding them on...

Terry, does you SFC have seat supports???

by **MobileAudio219** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 4:32 pm

smoker wrote:said it had exhaust and drag radials, im sure it has gears too, i just claimed that the motor itself was stock. i dont consider bumped timing an engine mod though....and yea the guy is well known for his driving.....and i already have the subframe connectors. mine was the first set we built....had it up on ramps and jack stands when we did it.

Thats pretty damn impressive, theres probably only a handful off people who have been able to do that with a hatch.

A buddy of mine had an 86 coupe (one of the lightest fox bodies) and he only ran a 12.9 with the following mods:

stock 302 with a main support girdle
Edelbrock heads
edelbrock performer rpm intake
1.7rr
f cam
70mm throttle body and egr spacer
19# injectors
stock mass air meter
aeromotive fpr with a 2 5/8 pro comp fuel pressure gauge
255lph fuel pump
mac 1 3/4 long tubes
2 1/2 mac off road h pipe
flowmasters with dumps
msd 6al ignition
msd coil
msd spark plug wires
msd cap and rotor
monster tach with shift light
3 core radiator
a9l computer

t5 transmission
centerforce dual friction clutch
pro. 5.0 shifter
aluminum quadrent
firewall clutch cable adjuster

welds 15x3 up front
welds 15x8 for the back with et streets
upr upper and lower tubular control arms
ford racing 373 gear
eaton posi
ta girdle
ARP head studs
cometic head gaskets
Romac harmonic balancer

He wasnt the absolute best driver, but still goes to show you that it's not easy to get into 12's with a fox body.

I would compare a 12 second fox body to a system that does 150 db. It's not something you do over night, it takes the right combo of parts and some tweaking... Most people who say they've done it, havent. It's more than you need for a daily driver.

by **Tim** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 4:31 pm

MobileAudio219 wrote:That's unheard of...
I've seen guys running stock motor coupes (that are a few hundred pounds lighter than the hatches) that are running HIGH 12's.
But they have a ton of weight reductions, bumped timing, short belts, full exhaust, gears, slicks, and all the little free mod's and alot of hours trying different things. Have you actually seen the car run 12's in person???
Are you going to built full lenght sub frame connectors? If you plan on installing them you really need a drive on lift, otherwise it makes it ALOT harder to get it right.
You really need to get a set on your vert, thats should pretty much be the first mod on any stang, even more important on a vert.

drive on lift pfffh, real mechanics dont need no stinking drive on lifts.

Tim

by **smoker** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 3:51 pm

MobileAudio219 wrote:That's unheard of...
I've seen guys running stock motor coupes (that are a few hundred pounds lighter than the hatches) that are running HIGH 12's.
But they have a ton of weight reductions, bumped timing, short belts, full exhaust, gears, slicks, and all the little free mod's and alot of hours trying different things. Have you actually seen the car run 12's in person???
Are you going to built full lenght sub frame connectors? If you plan on installing them you really need a drive on lift, otherwise it makes it ALOT harder to get it right.
You really need to get a set on your vert, thats should pretty much be the first mod on any stang, even more important on a vert.

said it had exhaust and drag radials, im sure it has gears too, i just claimed that the motor itself was stock. i dont consider bumped timing an engine mod though....and yea the guy is well known for his driving.....and i already have the subframe connectors. mine was the first set we built....had it up on ramps and jack stands when we did it.

by **MobileAudio219** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 11:40 am

smoker wrote:not stripped at all, full interior and still has ac......we have been building our own sub fram connectors here at the shop out of 2x2 14 guage square tubing that are very stiff and have thought about selling them....

That's unheard of...

I've seen guys running stock motor coupes (that are a few hundred pounds lighter than the hatches) that are running HIGH 12's.

But they have a ton of weight reductions, bumped timing, short belts, full exhaust, gears, slicks, and all the little free mod's and alot of hours trying different things. Have you actually seen the car run 12's in person???

Are you going to built full lenght sub frame connectors? If you plan on installing them you really need a drive on lift, otherwise it makes it ALOT harder to get it right.

You really need to get a set on your vert, thats should pretty much be the first mod on any stang, even more important on a vert.

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