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I believe it may be the AudioControl DQL-8 unit. This would be the second time it had pop issues (although this one is more finnicky because of the door thing). So I emailed AudioControl and sent it in to them. Hopefully, they are actually going to replace the PCB as they say. I do think their customer service is second to none! But we shall see once I get it back.

Thanks for all you help!

The first thing I would do is call audio control. if the pop is coming from their unit, they should have some ideas for you.

A little FYI. One the times I sent my DQS in, it was having problems with combining input channels during turn on, and a turn on pop. Basically I would start the car, or turn on the stereo, and would get a loud pop followed by my mids, tweets, and subs all trying to play full range. Considering my crossover is in the head unit, I knew it had to be the DQS combining channel inputs. Sent it in, and haven't had a problem with the turn on pop since.

So write down your EQ setting, and give them a call. I'm pretty sure they will have you send it in.

The only other idea I have for you, is using a key on hot wire to power a relay and use it as a turn on lead. That will remove the stay on feature of your radio, but should eliminate the door open function that causes the pop.

Battery is in the trunk for this car (makes it super handy). All components (except for the OEM Radio) are grounded to the same spot on the chassis where the negative battery terminal is grounded (about 8-10" from negative post). I even upgraded the battery ground to 0ga.

Where is your ground?

So I did some more testing. The pop is definitely coming down the RCA signal path (as I can disconnect the RCAs at the PDX-M6, and it won't pop). Possibly from the DQL-8. BUT it still only happens with the door cases.

The way it is setup now: The DQL-8 is turning on via it's signal sensing from the inputs from the HU. Then the DQL-8 is passing a remote turn-on lead to the amps.

It doesn't pop when I pull the power plug from the DQL-8 while the HU is on. It does pop when I pull the input signals while the HU and DQL-8 are on. That, of course, will turn the DQL-8 off because of signal sensing.

Not really sure what to try next. I suppose I could try finding a different turn-on source for the amps. But then I lose the stereo power on/off sync with the HU.

I've never had that problem with a gm. Wait your using the factory deck, so your also using a factory AUX on and not the remote out on a new deck.

Sounds like a power issue within the aux circuit.

I would slave in a relay, and see if that eliminates the problem. For simplicity sake you can use the power and ground coming off your distro blocks, and the remote wire you all ready have ran.

Thanks. I did research it a bit. I opted to upgrade to 4ga, for both safety sake, and future-proofing.

However, just installed the PDX-M6 and having an issue with turn-off pop in the subs. BUT, it only does it when the driver door is OPEN, and I turn the stereo off, or turn off the key, then open the door. Keep in mind that this vehicle has RAP (Retained Accessory Power on GMs) where you turn off the car, and the accessory power stays on until you open the driver door. I tested all cases, and it would only pop in cases of me having the driver door open.

All other cases like just pressing the on/off button while the key is on or off and door closed, doesn't produce the turn-off pop. This didn't happen with my old amp (Clarion APX1000.2).

The thing is too, that it sometimes produces the pop when turning the stereo on then off with the door open using either the on/off button or the key. But one thing is for sure, that the pop happens for sure every time I turn off the key, then open the door which turns off RAP.

This has me baffled! :help:

8ga within a few feet of a distroblock is fine AS LONG AS you fuse the 8 gage properly or the amp fuses the wire properly.

I know there are some charts out there somewhere, that let you calculate current flow for different size wires at different lengths. But I am way to sleepy to try to find one today.

That being said, if the run is less than a couple feet I wouldn't worry about it. Especially if your not going to push it.

Here's a question for ya...

Just bought the PDX-M6 today, but haven't installed yet (probably tomorrow). In my current/old setup I have 4awg wire from the battery going to a distribution block, then 8awg to each of the amps (4ch and sub amp). The APX1000.2 seemed to be fine on 8awg. The manual to the PDX-M6 says that it should be 4awg. From any of the charts I've seen on the Internet, it seems that I may be right in between the 4awg and 8awg range. Do you think keeping the 8awg will be an issue with this amp?

Thanks!