Choosing Drivers for a Speaker

Robert Wollenberg · Post by **Robert Wollenberg** » Thu Apr 20, 2006 7:30 am

How can that link be blocked from me? I guess I don't have access to caraudioforum. WTF? This is the only forum I really visit. And I'm on it all day. I don't know how these guys get some of these scores in the arcade. It's nutz. Everyone is sleeping during the majority of my day so I'm stuck playing games and chatting to myself.

_gonz_ · Post by **_gonz_** » Thu Apr 20, 2006 7:40 am

I can paste the post for ya...

geolemon wrote:Dont even look at those dB ratings.
Sensitivity is a BS spec to begin with (otherwise, look at that - man, how do those flea-market brands accomplish such high sensitivity numbers? ).

There's no real measurement standard, and even with regard to legitimate manufacturers, there's ways to manipulate it - even if you look at a 1w/1m standard test, conducted the same way as a 2.83v/1m standard test performed by the same manufacturer, you might see 6dB difference between them - how are you possibly going to compare sensitivity ratings between manufacturers? 8\

Also, remember, the subwoofer sensitivity isn't what determines how efficient your subwoofer is - the enclosure determines that. ]before[/i] you reach the thermal powerhandling capabilities (the rating on the back of the sub) of the subwoofer.

It's all in your hands.

When you get back from the sandy shithole, move to Western New York... we'll have some cookouts, shoot some guns, crank some tunes.... come on down!

Robert Wollenberg · Post by **Robert Wollenberg** » Thu Apr 20, 2006 7:47 am

I'm almost there. I'm in DC for the time being. I see what you're saying about the sensitivity. And considering the environment we're putting drivers in when sticking them in cars ... what's a good way to measure one driver against another? Most of the freq. response curves are primarily on axis and not accomplished in a car. lol. And even if it had, from one vehicle to another it's going to be totally different. so what's the magic formula? What's the answer? Or is there no answer?

_gonz_ · Post by **_gonz_** » Thu Apr 20, 2006 7:55 am

Well, since Geolemon is a sub designer, I'll defer that question to him. He's the guy to talk to on driver specs or comparisons.

On axis can be achieved with fiberglass pods. They're pretty easy to make, it's the aiming part thats a little tricky sometimes.

Robert Wollenberg · Post by **Robert Wollenberg** » Thu Apr 20, 2006 8:07 am

true, but there's no kickpanel in a cherokee. I have to keep my speakers in the doors. I love kick panels and have built several in the past. But it's just not happening in the Jeep.

When I build my door panels I'll aim everything as well as I can ... but it's going to be a little less than optimum I'm sure.

solacedagony · Post by **solacedagony** » Thu Apr 20, 2006 8:20 am

Yea, I have a similar problem with aiming speakers. I have kick panels, but not enough room to stick them in. I have a standard cabbed 2003 Ford Ranger. I do have the sail panels though for the tweeters.
Also, thanks for that post gonz.

_gonz_ · Post by **_gonz_** » Thu Apr 20, 2006 8:38 am

Airforceyooper wrote: I have to keep my speakers in the doors.

False.

Jonathan · Post by **Jonathan** » Thu Apr 20, 2006 8:39 am

Bwcad1 wrote:*cough* spl switch *cough*

Quitter

Robert Wollenberg · Post by **Robert Wollenberg** » Thu Apr 20, 2006 8:42 am

so what would you suggest? If I don't put them in my doors and I don't have any room in the kick for them, where am I suppose to put them?

Jonathan · Post by **Jonathan** » Thu Apr 20, 2006 8:45 am

Airforceyooper wrote:I'm almost there. I'm in DC for the time being. I see what you're saying about the sensitivity. And considering the environment we're putting drivers in when sticking them in cars ... what's a good way to measure one driver against another? Most of the freq. response curves are primarily on axis and not accomplished in a car. lol. And even if it had, from one vehicle to another it's going to be totally different. so what's the magic formula? What's the answer? Or is there no answer?

I feel frequency response is a near useless parameter to go by for car audio unless you see a big suckout somewhere in the driver's frequency range. By the time you get the speakers in place, you've either:

1: Focused a lot of attention on catering the application to the specific driver in hand. For that reason it will perform well.

2: Popped the speakers in a factory spot. In that scenario, all speakers good or bad are going to have a terrible response regardless.

Off axis dispersion is important, but this can be combatted with a lower crossover frequency.