Ok guys here is my problem. Right now I have factory pads and rotors on my car, and they don't like the high speed driving I love to do. Especially the windy, no speed limit roads I travel every day.
Whats happening is my pads and rotors are getting hot, and starting to stick which freakes the ABS out. If you have never felt this, ITS NOT COOL, especially entering a turn at 70 to 80.
So I am looking into some replacments (This is where you come in)
I know I want something thats an OEM replacment. So I can use the factory calipers.
I also want something that can do well with heat. So I am considering a cross drilled (maybe slotted) rotor.
As for the back of the car. Well I am not sure. I am pretty sure I want matching pads on the back, but I am not sure about the rotors. Most of the high end companies only make rotors for the front. So I could do without, but I would like to keep the look consistent. And I don't really like the idea of mixing brands. Unless I was sure it wouldn't cause any problems.
Well here is what I found so far.
ROTORS
http://www.brakeworld.com./catalog.asp? ... ms&catid=1
I like the idea of using Brembo, but they don't make a rotor for the back, or pads.
Disc Italia makes front and rear, but I know nothing about the company.
http://www.overnightautoparts.com/perfo ... &partid=78
Same boat here. Three brands I know nothing about.
PADS
I know pads are my main problem now, with them getting hot and sticky. Thats why I am considering cross drilled rotors to help keep everything cool. But that leaves me open for what to do here. Do I want something that will handle the higher heat, or will the rotor help out enough?
http://www.brakeworld.com./catalog.asp? ... ms&catid=2
Again I don't know much about the companies, and the only way I can keep the front and back the same is with the Rotex Gold Kevlars
http://www.overnightautoparts.com/perfo ... andid=1258
EBC does have front and rear pads for my car, and a few diffrent compounds, so which one should I use?
Ok one more thing to add. Do I want cross drilled, or dimpled? I noticed EBC makes front and rear rotors, and pads that will work, but the rotors are dimpled, and not fully drilled.
http://www.overnightautoparts.com/perfo ... andid=1258
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ABS problem
Moderators: GlassWolf, William from NOLA
Ok I think I am going with Hawk HPS pads. The rotors are still up in the air.
http://www.prostreetonline.com/buy/hawk_hps_brake_pads/
http://www.prostreetonline.com/buy/hawk_hps_brake_pads/
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GlassWolf
- Master of My Domain
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just get a big brake kit premade for that car.
brembo, baer, whatever.
go with the biggest rotors you can fit, slotted and drilled, and swap to 4 piston calipers with low dust semi-metalic pads.
If you really want to spend some money go with ceramics.
brembo, baer, whatever.
go with the biggest rotors you can fit, slotted and drilled, and swap to 4 piston calipers with low dust semi-metalic pads.
If you really want to spend some money go with ceramics.
GlassWolf (aka KikiTheCat)
moderator-administrator
I like ceramics :) Last longer, quieter, not near as much brake dust to worry about. You pay for that, though. Ceramics were the only thing that didn't sound like fingernails on a chalkboard with that Camry I had.
Rear brakes really don't do a whole lot for the car. Stopping the weight shifts forward and rears don't fade as much. That's why a car with rear drum brakes can often provide more stopping power than one with rear discs-surface and contact area of the shoe.
Rear brakes really don't do a whole lot for the car. Stopping the weight shifts forward and rears don't fade as much. That's why a car with rear drum brakes can often provide more stopping power than one with rear discs-surface and contact area of the shoe.
Yeah Glass I though about a Brembo big brake kit, but I can't justify the 2300 bucks. Now if I was planning on racing the car, yeah I could see spending the extra cash.
Well I narrowed down some more. I am planing the brembo rotors, with hawk performance ceramic, or Hawk HPS street pads.
That brings me to my next few questions.
What is Ferro-Carbon compound, and will it or the ceramic handle the heat better?
What rotors will be better? I know the cross drilled run cooler, but the sloted can be ran with more aggressive brake pads, and might hold up better.
Well I narrowed down some more. I am planing the brembo rotors, with hawk performance ceramic, or Hawk HPS street pads.
That brings me to my next few questions.
What is Ferro-Carbon compound, and will it or the ceramic handle the heat better?
What rotors will be better? I know the cross drilled run cooler, but the sloted can be ran with more aggressive brake pads, and might hold up better.
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GlassWolf
- Master of My Domain
- Posts: 6725
- Joined: Thu Oct 07, 2004 4:00 am
- Location: Columbia, SC
- Contact:
cross drilling is to save weight. slotting is to prevent gasing.
the rotors are only so useful though.
you need a larger diameter rotor to help braking, but you need the clamping force to accomodate that, which means you need that bigger caliper with more powerful pistons and larger pads. otherwise you're just wasting money for looks.
face it, you're contradicting yourself here.
first post you're describing race conditions, even if it's not sanctioned, you're still in racing conditions braking hard from 70+MPH.
Then you go on to say "well if I was actually racing the car...."
you are. end of story.
you need brakes made for those conditions.
the rotors are only so useful though.
you need a larger diameter rotor to help braking, but you need the clamping force to accomodate that, which means you need that bigger caliper with more powerful pistons and larger pads. otherwise you're just wasting money for looks.
face it, you're contradicting yourself here.
first post you're describing race conditions, even if it's not sanctioned, you're still in racing conditions braking hard from 70+MPH.
Then you go on to say "well if I was actually racing the car...."
you are. end of story.
you need brakes made for those conditions.
GlassWolf (aka KikiTheCat)
moderator-administrator
Ok Glass let me back up some. The car stops fine. If you have driven a new Accord you know that the brakes have a ton of grab. I mean a ton.
I have no problems slowing down coming into a turn, and I am not slamming on the brakes setting up for the turn. Most of it is medium braking going in, throttle mid way and coming off. They work fine till the pads get hot, (which right now is happening with NORMAL driving) and then they start trying to stick to the rotor, and thats when the ABS starts freaking out.
Once the pads get hot I can be going 10 to 15 miles an hour, step on the brake, and the ABS still goes nuts. I talked to honda about this, and its a common problem. They told me to turn the rotor, and replace the pads. But turning the rotor is illegal in Germany, and its not going to keep it from happening again. Thats why I am trying to do something that will keep the temp down.
Ok Glass I have a few questions for you.
If my research is correct slotting originated from cross drilling. To help with gassing, and cooling. The reason was, allot of the first cross drilled rotors had a problem with cracking. Once they started testing slotted rotors they noticed an increased in temp at the onset of braking (due to the extra grab from the slot) and then an evening out of the temperature.
Cross drilled rotors give you better cooling due to the increased air flow, and result in a lighter rotating mass. This also helps with braking and brake wear. The problem with cross drilled rotors is the weak points caused by the drilling. I am sure this has been minimized thru out the years, but to some degree still exist.
One more thing. Yes a full blown Big Brake kit ould be my best bet, but for now its not a possibality. Thats why I am trying to find the next best solution I can.
I have no problems slowing down coming into a turn, and I am not slamming on the brakes setting up for the turn. Most of it is medium braking going in, throttle mid way and coming off. They work fine till the pads get hot, (which right now is happening with NORMAL driving) and then they start trying to stick to the rotor, and thats when the ABS starts freaking out.
Once the pads get hot I can be going 10 to 15 miles an hour, step on the brake, and the ABS still goes nuts. I talked to honda about this, and its a common problem. They told me to turn the rotor, and replace the pads. But turning the rotor is illegal in Germany, and its not going to keep it from happening again. Thats why I am trying to do something that will keep the temp down.
Yeah some companies do, but not Brembo.joeyc wrote:don't they make a rotor that is cross-drilled and slotted?
Ok Glass I have a few questions for you.
I agree on both, but wouldn't the extra area for air flow (cross drilled) also help in cooling?GlassWolf wrote:cross drilling is to save weight. slotting is to prevent gasing.
If my research is correct slotting originated from cross drilling. To help with gassing, and cooling. The reason was, allot of the first cross drilled rotors had a problem with cracking. Once they started testing slotted rotors they noticed an increased in temp at the onset of braking (due to the extra grab from the slot) and then an evening out of the temperature.
Cross drilled rotors give you better cooling due to the increased air flow, and result in a lighter rotating mass. This also helps with braking and brake wear. The problem with cross drilled rotors is the weak points caused by the drilling. I am sure this has been minimized thru out the years, but to some degree still exist.
One more thing. Yes a full blown Big Brake kit ould be my best bet, but for now its not a possibality. Thats why I am trying to find the next best solution I can.