Head gasket

stephensmia · Post by **stephensmia** » Sat Jun 24, 2006 8:47 pm

I have a '97 Egale Talon and when I get back I have to replace the head gasket and the exhaust gasket I also want to put in a new header. It has the 420a engine and I wonder how hard you guys think that would be to do on my own or should I pay to have it done.

MobileAudio219 · Post by **MobileAudio219** » Sun Jun 25, 2006 8:40 am

Usually if you have to ask how hard its going to be you should just have it done, no offence.

Either way, the water pump and timing belt should be changed also.

If you dont time these cars right you can take out a few valves/pistons, which means the head has to come back off and so does the oil pan, not a good thing... If you have some wrench time and feel comfortable doing so, then buy yourself a book and do it, just take your time. Otherwise take it to a shop...

Ryan from Ohio · Post by **Ryan from Ohio** » Sun Jun 25, 2006 8:44 am

Ditto...

I did the work like this in the 97 Century. While I was fully able to do it its still not fully right. Going to take it to a shop in a few weeks. TIred of messing with it

stephensmia · Post by **stephensmia** » Sun Jun 25, 2006 10:14 am

That's what I thought. I was hoping it just looked a lot harder than it really was. I have worked with v-6 and v-8 engines but never little 4 bangers. So I guess I will just end up taking it to a shop.

Ryan from Ohio · Post by **Ryan from Ohio** » Sun Jun 25, 2006 3:23 pm

Mine had more factors involved though. Like the coolant (aka water) leaked into two cylinders... Well I didnt know that until I tore into it like 3-4 months later and discovered the RUST...

MobileAudio219 · Post by **MobileAudio219** » Sun Jun 25, 2006 10:41 pm

Ryan from Ohio wrote:Mine had more factors involved though. Like the coolant (aka water) leaked into two cylinders... Well I didnt know that until I tore into it like 3-4 months later and discovered the RUST...

And there goes the bearings... Most of the time when water gets into the cylinder you might as well go ahead and have the crank checked and put new bearings in...

Ryan from Ohio · Post by **Ryan from Ohio** » Mon Jun 26, 2006 3:03 pm

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

I seriously didnt want to hear that. But if thats the situation so be it. But if thats the fact I got about a month to fix it... SO will need the cherry picker...

I hope the crank can just be polished out... If not Im in trouble...

MobileAudio219 · Post by **MobileAudio219** » Tue Jun 27, 2006 3:12 pm

Ryan from Ohio wrote:NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
I seriously didnt want to hear that. But if thats the situation so be it. But if thats the fact I got about a month to fix it... SO will need the cherry picker...
I hope the crank can just be polished out... If not Im in trouble...

Was there alot of water in the oil? If it wasnt real milky and you didnt drive it for a long period of time you might be alright... what kind of car was it again?

Ryan from Ohio · Post by **Ryan from Ohio** » Tue Jun 27, 2006 3:55 pm

97 buick century.

I didnt notice water in the actual oil. Actualy when I drained that oil it appeared to be quite normal... It was just in the cylinder above the piston head...

Im going to take it across to the shop on Thursday. Today was the last straw with it for me...

For some reason after using the GM top end cleaner as directed by the GM parts counter guy, the car runs like ass. Like bad...

Im not sure whats wrong, it did throw a code at least tonight... SO maybe one more try @ auto zone... THe tick/nock will get addressed at a shop. If I need to do a rebuild then I will do that myself... just a part/piece or so or tighten something I will let the shop fix it...

MobileAudio219 · Post by **MobileAudio219** » Thu Jun 29, 2006 11:28 am

That sucks... I hope you get it all figured out without it costing you an arm and a leg.