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My first post and tons o questions.

Post all your general car audio questions here.
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swimmerdude
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Post by swimmerdude »

Do you have an upgraded battery up front?? If you don't, I would say that would be more important than the one in the back. If you don't have the extra cash for the rear battery, I would say you would be fine without it. It's not like you are going to be pulling 1500rms all day long.
solacedagony
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Post by solacedagony »

ZeroAccess wrote:Diamond Audio 10" sub in sealed box sounds like poo too, I even sent 500watts to it from a friends amp...pure poo
Like someone else said, it may be that the enclosure wasn't optimal for the sub. Also could be that you had the filters set wrong. More than likely if it sounds horrible, it's user error.
ZeroAccess wrote:Here is what I was planning grab a Hifonics or Lanzar amp and push two 12's at around 500watt rms each in a sealed/ported box. Use the alpine amp to push two 8" subs on top of the 12's. Use the HU to power the speakers. Later down the road I'd love to steal my friends Pioneer HU and I think I can get it for free so that'd rock.
First off, if you'd be running the same frequency range to both subs, it's a bad idea. You could be running into all kinds of issues (phase, sound stage, etc). If you really wanted to run both sets of subs, you should at least send each set different frequency ranges. But all in all, I think it's a waste of time.
ZeroAccess wrote:My budget for 2 12's, 3.0F Cap,Amp,Box,2 8's,Box and wiring is 600 dollars. I'm a mechanic so wiring and boxes I'll build so no big deal there. I'm more interested in SQ than PURE hard hitting bass. I'd like to hit at least 140ish and be able to hear the entire system. Right now my highs are MORE than sufficient and I believe that with all the bass I can use the LPF and HPF to tune my highs just where I need them.
I would recommend just getting a single quality 12 or 15 and not worry about the capacitor and 8's. Remember that high volumes and SQ are generally exclusive. The higher you turn the volume, the more chance you're going to degrade your SQ from your amps, speakers and electrical system running out of steam.

In regards to the electrical system, the most important things would be the alternator and big3 wiring. Don't worry about your batteries until you get that stuff done if you're planning on running 1000+W.
rationalthinking
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Deck QUESTIONS! PLEASE HELP!

Post by rationalthinking »

I'm installing a deck in my little sisters 94 4runner. I got the right connection harness wiring from qal-mart but NONE OF THEM FIT!!!! Can I just cut the wiring from the back of the plugin wiring harness right in the back and just hook up the colors?????

PLEASE HELP! ASP! THANKS!
Scarrell
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Post by Scarrell »

you should have posted this in the right section.. but anyway.. are you sure you are buying the right harness? go to a car audio store, or best buy or some where else and see if they have one, you may need some special adapters.. also, do not cut the factory harness.. its just a hassle to deal with afterwards, especially if you need a special plug.
rationalthinking
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Post by rationalthinking »

i went to a local car audio store and they said they only have one adapter for a 94 4runner. how hard is it to jus cut the wires and work with it after????? any suggestions????
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GlassWolf
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Post by GlassWolf »

see the FAQ section on charging systems, and on capacitors.
to wire a second battery you use an isolator to separate them, so one is dedicated to audio, one to starting the car, but both are charged by the alternator.

you need a larger alternator most times, and heavier wire for 1500 watts RMS, since most stock alternators are 100A at most, 12 volts DC, which comes out to 100*12 (1200 watts) and about 50-90% of that juice is used by the car itself for your onboard computers, ignition system, HVAC, wipers, lights, etc. leaving you with enough current to feed an amplifier of about 200 watts without usually running into problems.

just an FYI there.
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GlassWolf
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Post by GlassWolf »

PS, if you've been blowing subs, it's most likely due to amplifier clipping, caused by a lack of sufficient charging system, and gains being set too high on the amps combined.

capacitors do NOT help in your situation. They are filters, not a replacement for an alternator and battery.
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ZeroAccess
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Post by ZeroAccess »

Thank you glasswolf, Appreciate it greatly

I've been looking at things and realize I will be upgrading my alternator and doing the ground wiring that ya'll recomend. Thanks again to everyone.
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GlassWolf
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Post by GlassWolf »

it certainly won't hurt to do so.
I used a 150A alternator and 1200CCA battery in a Festiva I used to use, to handle 820 watts RMS, which by today's standards doesn't sound like a lot of power, but the extra current was required.
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