Question about the electrical system.

Laparka22 · Post by **Laparka22** » Mon Apr 09, 2007 7:31 pm

Ok. I been wanting to put a system in my car for a while. I finnally did, but I ended up clipping the sub ( dumb I know) becouse I had a Kicker 600.1, but not enough juice. If I put the bass boost to 0, and put the gain about 1/4, the cone would hardly even move. I had it at 2 ohms also, couse the amp is 600 rms at 2 ohms. I was wondering would upgrading the big 3 be enough? Or would I have to get a alt and a new battery also? I have a 98 Ford Contour. 2.0L engine, and like I said, you can just tell theres not enough power for the amp. Thanks!

cargodz · Post by **cargodz** » Mon Apr 09, 2007 11:54 pm

You should have enough juice for the Kicker as your alternator should be a 110 amp (pretty good for stock), I would definately recommend the big 3 in 4awg... and if you don't have a dmm (digital multi-meter)... GET ONE... You can pick up a cheap one for around 10 bucks or less... If you do have one, use the "how to set up your amp with a dmm" in the FAQ threads

Post by **GlassWolf** » Tue Apr 10, 2007 2:52 pm

Ok here's the deal in short:
the big three alone won't make a difference most times, as the factory wiring is sufficient for the stock alternator. Increasing the current flow capability of the wiring won't increase the output of the alternator, which is the source of current for a running car. :)

that said, the alternator is what needs to be bigger when the car is running, to supply more juice for the audio system.

a second, isolated deep cycle battery is ideal for running a system with the car off, and will help additionally to stablize voltage rails for brief durations with the car running.. however don't misinterpret this. If the alternator can't keep up, it doesn't matter what batteries you use, they'll still drain without a chance to recharge since they won't see the 13.8 or higher voltage rails required to recharge them.

Laparka22 · Post by **Laparka22** » Tue Apr 10, 2007 6:14 pm

would you say that probably the problem though? I have to crank the bass boost like to max on the amp to make the cone even move, which I know now is bad to do, but if I have it a 0, the cone will not even move really at all. Just another dumb question. If it's bad to put the bass boost to +18DB, why do they have it?

jonnyb · Post by **jonnyb** » Tue Apr 10, 2007 6:25 pm

why do people kill other people? we'll never know.
do your lights dim real bad when the bass hits? that's a sign that your amp isnt getting enough power and choking the electrical system.
get a DMM and measure the DC Voltage at the amp when you play the system. if it dips below 11V (with engine running!) then you have a electrical problem. and like glass said, the only true solution would be to upgrade the alternator.
since you say the speaker barely moves, it sounds like you may not have your gains set right. what do you have the sub-out on the source unit at? read the FAQ on how to set gains.
and what do you mean you clipped the sub? did you toast it?
and double check your wiring of the subwoofer.

Laparka22 · Post by **Laparka22** » Tue Apr 10, 2007 6:39 pm

yeah it got toasted, and yes the lights do dim pretty bad. The wiring was ok, I checked it. And as the gain, I am sure I set it right, even if I put to half it would barly move the cone. I have a Poineer Premier Deh-6800 if that helps. I guess my only choice is to get a meter and see what it charges. Thanks

cargodz · Post by **cargodz** » Wed Apr 11, 2007 12:08 am

This may sound like a stupid question, but... are you expecting a toasted sub to still actually produce any quality of bass? As this is beginning to sound more and more like the problem...
And if you're getting dimming then an alt upgrade would be the best option.

Post by **GlassWolf** » Wed Apr 11, 2007 4:27 am

bass boost is there as a feature to attract the masses of potential buyers.
the problem is, setting the gains properly then turning the boost up, offsets the gains again, causing the amp to clip by overdriving the input stage of the amplifier.

you may have weak line voltages requiring a higher gain setting on the amp.
you have have a bass level control set too low on the ehad unit, again reducing line voltage.
you may have the sub wired to a 4 or 8 ohm load, reducing the power to the sub.

brent · Post by **brent** » Wed Apr 11, 2007 5:57 am

I know first hand that bass boost does not need to be used on the 600.1. I currently run a 600.1 with no boost what so ever, and it gets very loud. However, that 600.1 should not be dragging your charging system so hard. Are you sure your HU settings are correct. Like Mike (Cargodz) said, you cannot expect much from your sub at this point.

cargodz · Post by **cargodz** » Wed Apr 11, 2007 12:05 pm

brent wrote:However, that 600.1 should not be dragging your charging system so hard. Are you sure your HU settings are correct.

That's exactly what I was thinking since that Contour should have a 120amp alt, but it could very well be faulty and still need to be replaced.