Mounting a 12" Sub on a 12"X14.5" Face

whataburger · Post by **whataburger** » Fri Jul 06, 2007 12:58 pm

ok, SO I am looking over the spec sheet on my new Alpine Type R 12" and from What I can figure to build thier "Optimum vented box" by their specs it would require mounting this 12" inch sub on a face of an enclosure that would be 12"X14.5" Wow thats pretty thin to support that weight right?

I am thinking about maybe gluing a plate of aluminum onto the surface for added strength. what do you guys think?

cargodz · Post by **cargodz** » Fri Jul 06, 2007 1:11 pm

whataburger wrote:ok, SO I am looking over the spec sheet on my new Alpine Type R 12" and from What I can figure to build thier "Optimum vented box" by their specs it would require mounting this 12" inch sub on a face of an enclosure that would be 12"X14.5" Wow thats pretty thin to support that weight right?
I am thinking about maybe gluing a plate of aluminum onto the surface for added strength. what do you guys think?

You are talking about building this with 3/4" MDF right? And keep in mind that the front baffle is secured by the sides, top, and bottom... If you feel it needed then I think I would look into doubling the baffle rather than using aluminum, cause with the aluminum if you don't get it all secured right then you're gonna have some serious vibration and rattle.

whataburger · Post by **whataburger** » Fri Jul 06, 2007 1:18 pm

yeah 3/4 mdf, so you think I should make a 3/4 thick front face that will go over the entire front surface area and then route out a 90 degree rounded front area around the port? I am sorry if I am talking bass akwards, I am just trying to get it right without much experience! LOL

cargodz · Post by **cargodz** » Fri Jul 06, 2007 1:27 pm

Well if you're gonna do a square port, then you'll have that as added strength too... My suggestion would be to get some 2"x 2"s and use it for inner bracing along the corners, then you'll have all the support you need for a single sheet of 3/4" MDF (alot cheaper solution than aluminum).

Bwcad1 · Post by **Bwcad1** » Fri Jul 06, 2007 1:40 pm

2x2 = mad turbulance cut them on a 45. gluing aluminum is a bad idea it wont hold to the surface of the wood plus its a pain to work with unless you have the right tools and some machining knowledge. just build it if it flexes which i probably wont i can almost gurantee it wont put a second layer of MDF on it.

loudwagon15s · Post by **loudwagon15s** » Fri Jul 06, 2007 4:57 pm

if your doing just a type r 12" even just a double baffle is over kill in my mind. I would just add some filberglass, mabe some bracing which should keep that box nice and solid.

whataburger · Post by **whataburger** » Fri Jul 06, 2007 7:15 pm

Thanks guys I just got through with it, first I stiffened it with bracing in EVERY corner which was routed to a create all smooth round corners, then I glued and screwed, then I used body filler (bondo), then I finished by pouring a quart of fiberglass resin in it and giving the complete interior a nice thick bath, with the excess I coated the exterior as well, all the corners have been routered, so hope fully no turbulence, I am thinking after I listen to it I may glue in some poly fill to the back area directly behind the driver if needed!!!!!!

whataburger · Post by **whataburger** » Sat Jul 07, 2007 10:25 am

OK, something fucked up..............

the fiberglass hardener evidentally didnt work................ now I have a big ass gooey box!

Bwcad1 · Post by **Bwcad1** » Sat Jul 07, 2007 10:44 am

u didnt mix it correctly hten

whataburger · Post by **whataburger** » Sat Jul 07, 2007 10:45 am

evidently not...... is there a way to fix this, or am I just gonna have to build a new one?