My Comp VR Is Gunna Blow

Post by **GlassWolf** » Wed May 11, 2005 5:47 pm

One other option I meant to mention and forgot.
this sub is DVC, if I recall. be it dual 2 or dual 4 ohm, if he wired the coils in series, this will greatly reduce the power to the sub.. unless it is dual 2 ohm and in this case you'd be at too low of a load in parallel.
Anyway you may want to pull the sub out of the box and see what the coils are labeled on the magnet.
each will say 2 or 4 followed by an "omega" emblem.
then see how the coils are jumpered together.. if the jumper wiring goes from POS to NEG, or POS to POS.
let me know the load (ohms per coil) and how it's wired.
that'll tell me what's going on, too.
If this is a dual 2 ohm sub, and the coils are in series that's a 4 ohm load which means the amp is giving you 300 watts RMS. that's right within the CVR's power range which is why the guy at the shop may have paired the two up.

NorthQuad · Post by **NorthQuad** » Wed May 11, 2005 6:08 pm

I can remember the wires being hooked up positive to positive on the back of the sub. I haven't yet taken it out of the box but will do. I was wondering what is the difference between 2ohm and 4ohm was?

Scarrell · Post by **Scarrell** » Wed May 11, 2005 6:29 pm

i recently wired up some CompVR's...theres four terminal post's... one on each side... two have dots on the top (one neg and one pos) and the other two do not... i wasnt sure how to wire so i just went pos to dot pos and neg to dot neg from the amp and ran a single wire to the others for parallel...which would get 1ohm load.. but ran in series the amp will see a 4ohm load... also does he not have both coils wired? also you can go to http://www.photobucket.com and host pics there..

NorthQuad · Post by **NorthQuad** » Wed May 11, 2005 6:47 pm

Thanks Scarrell, here is a picture of the sub that won't pound. Cross my fingers hope it works. [img][IMG]http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y232/N ... CompVR.jpg[/img][/IMG]

Scarrell · Post by **Scarrell** » Wed May 11, 2005 6:51 pm

well we need to see the back of it, and if you can get a pic of the amp so we can see how it is wired... also dunno if this has been said, may be stupid too, not sure if it matters either...buuuuut... are the RCA's in the sub output..

NorthQuad · Post by **NorthQuad** » Wed May 11, 2005 6:54 pm

Scarrell, It shows exactly how to run the wires on the back of the sub right on http://www.Kicker.com. They have manuals there for everything they sell. If you ever have to hook any of there stuff up again.

Fishy · Post by **Fishy** » Wed May 11, 2005 7:41 pm

Umm....... Quad. If you have a multimeter there's a way to check the impedance of that sub w/o removing it from the box. The way you describe it the voice coils appear to be wired in parallel. Thats the way you'd want it if the sub is dual 4 ohm, but if its a dual 2 ohm sub then you have problems. That amp wasn't designed to power a 1 ohm load. If your pushin it hard the thing may be TRYING to develop close to 1000 watts. Definitely way too much for that sub especialy with the amount of distortion that may be involved..

If you have a multimeter disconnect the sub from the amp either at the amp or at the terminal cup if your box has one. Take the meter and measure the resistance at the speaker terminals. If you have the right sub and its wired correctly you should get a figure roughly between 1.4 and 2 ohms. If you get something less than one ohm or between 3 and 4 ohms they gave you the wrong sub. If the meter reads between 6 and 8 ohms then you got the right sub, but they wired it wrong. That amp would only provide about 150 watts into an 8 ohm load.

If this seems like too much trouble just do like Kiki suggested and take the thing out and look for a model number or some other clue as to what voice coils that thing has.

-Fishy

NorthQuad · Post by **NorthQuad** » Wed May 11, 2005 7:49 pm

Here's the money shot. I hope you can make it out. It's positive to positive and it's dual 4 ohm.[img][IMG]http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y232/N ... IM0201.jpg[/img][/IMG]

Fishy · Post by **Fishy** » Wed May 11, 2005 7:54 pm

Well at least we know your installer ain't a complete dumb bunny.

-Fishy

Fishy · Post by **Fishy** » Wed May 11, 2005 8:08 pm

then I cranked the deck until it just started to distort with the bass down on the deck. I then turn up the gain on the amp but I can't turn it up very much without the sub trying to slap.

If you used the separate bass tone control to dial down the bass try setting the gains again with everything flat except like a 120-200 Hz highpass for your 5x7's if your deck will do that.

One other question. Were your old 12's in a ported enclosure? You may just be used to more output than what a single sealed 12 normally delivers. A ported sub generally has more power handling capability than sealed as well. Oh and if you have a tape measurer what are the exact external dimensions of that box?

-Fishy